15 Best Restaurants in The Cayes and Atolls, Belize

Here's a place unlike any other on the island: from the homemade bundiga (green banana dumplings) to drumming presentations on cedar and mahogany drums, Black and White gives you a special window into the rich culture and foodways of Belize's Garifuna people. The menu spotlights Garifuna cuisine like hudut (snapper in coconut broth with pounded plantains), tikini (brown flour soup with fish and vegetables) and the staple dish, cassava bread. The owner Julia Martinez (known to everyone in town as Ms. Julia) is a true cultural ambassador for the Garifuna; speak with her and you can learn about Garifuna heritage in all its vitality. Since Garifuna (also called Garinagu) populations are concentrated in Seine Beight, Hopkins, Punta Gorda, and Dangriga—all on the mainland––this is a unique resource on the island. Try to make it to one of Black and White's entertainment nights, which celebrates Garifuna culture with live drumming, traditional dancing, and a decadent buffet. 

Here is an island institution. In the old days, in 1974, Elvi Staines sold burgers from the window of her house, soon adding a few tables on the sand under a tree; today, the floors are still sand and the tree remains (lifeless now and cut back to fit inside the roof), but the dining experience has been upgraded. Enter through massive mahogany doors and you'll be tended to by a large and gracious staff. The Maya pulled pork and other sandwiches are big hits at lunch. For dinner Elvi's features upmarket dishes such as shrimp flambeéd in tequila or grilled pork with sorrel barbecue sauce. Don't pass on the coconut pie for dessert. The Maya Feast every Friday should be on your weekend list. It's a bit touristy, but we always enjoy Elvi's.

From the moment you walk under the leafy trellis, the Milanese hosts of this classic nook will make you feel at home. Choose one of two fabulous nightly pastas (one vegetarian, one meat; you won't go wrong with either), and sip Chianti underneath DIY lampshades made from colanders. Cozy up beside other visitors from around the world, as the high-top tables are shared. Owners Anna Marini and Armando Pau are highly respected cooks on the island. Pasta in the Caribbean? A better pairing than you'd think. You may even find yourself a repeat guest the next night. But be warned: you'll want to make a reservation.

This red-hot beachfront bistro, both stylish and whimsical, is the treasure you didn't know you were looking for. Take your street-food tapas to the splash pool, lounge on sultry daybeds, or catch a game of Belikin pong. Famous for fascinating, boozy concoctions, there's also a range of imaginative plates, like snapper ramen and lobster pizza. Run by American Vivian Yu, Rojo isn't to be missed. Don't leave Ambergris without ordering the blended mango-jalapeño margarita, served with rings of pepper. Bring snorkel gear to see the resident nurse shark.

Tucked away from the main strip, Sunset Palace is a welcome alternative to the spring break vibes and #saltlife scene of other Secret Beach bars. Sure, it can be a party spot occasionally, but this beach is so spacious that you can read on a daybed while revelers play beer pong 100 feet away. Sunset Palace has friendly service and surprisingly good food for the touristy area, even though it's your standard nachos, ceviche, and seafood fare. Make sure to ask for a rum drink with fresh-squeezed juices. Note that the term "beach club" gets thrown around a lot on the cayes: Sunset Palace just a casual establishment (no admission fee). 

Aji feels like your friendly neighborhood mainstay (two resident pups like to laze around the bar), only with irresistible sea views and Spanish-inspired small plates. Dinner is the thing at Aji, when a canopy of fairy lights illuminate the seaside tables and live music often mingles with the rustle of palms. Dishes here are mostly classics, like gambas al ajillo (shrimp with garlic and olive oil), papas bravas, and seafood paella. You may find these tasty classics to be a welcome break from more innovative menus. If you'd rather come during the day, breakfast and lunch are pleasant times to eat under the shady palms. 

Black Orchid is named for the delicate national flower of Belize, but the gorgeous food here ranges from Belizean to global fusion. Vibrant dishes include ginger pork egg rolls and teriyaki chicken cooked over a lava rock broiler. This island-elegant dining room has thatch accents, a fountain tiered like a Maya temple, and starched tablecloths. Swing by for a popular happy hour starting at 3 pm, but make a reservation if you plan to stay for dinner. 

The jazzy marquee letters reading “I Love Belize” capture the enthusiasm of this long-standing favorite. The beachfront restaurant serves up colorful dishes like Thai-inspired black bean-encrusted fish, plus less flashy options like a club sandwich, so there's something for everyone. Nothing about Blue Water is cheap, but it works to please, with its wood-fired pizzas, top-notch service, and breezy beachfront setting. 

It's nothing glamorous, but the food at Caliente—Mexican with a Caribbean and Belizean spin—hits all the right notes. The ginger-rum shrimp is brightly flavored, the waterfront patio is airy, and the attitude is unpretentious. Check out the indoor mural celebrating the reef's diversity. This San Pedrano--run restaurant frequently has live music.

The outdoor ice coolers of fresh lobster, mussels, and fish might lure you into Caramba; once inside, you'll quickly sense the frenetic energy of this noisy and often packed joint. No sea views, and there's nothing fancy on the broad menu here—just basics like grilled snapper, fried shrimp, pork chops, and Mexican fajitas, all in American portions—but everything is well prepared, prices are moderate, and the service is snappy and enthusiastic. Belizean owner Rene Reyes worked his way up from fruit-seller to successful restaurateur.

Perhaps the brightest foodie highlight on Caye Caulker, Hibisca serves the kind of innovative dishes you'd expect in a cosmopolitan city. Don't worry, though––it's still casual Caulker. Chef-owner Darren Casson pushes for ambitious, genre-busting flavors, but he also dishes up loaded fries and an array of burgers (including a veggie patty). Most guests go gaga over flavor combos like red pepper romesco sauce paired with Belizean dukunu (a tamale-like dish), but some sniff at the avant-garde style. You'll have to try it to know where you land.

Lush palms, lamplight, and blooms of burning love flowers all make for a seductive ambience on an island where you expect picnic tables and sand floors. Il Pellicano features classics like risotto, gnocchi, and margherita pizza (not fresh mozzarella, but better than the island's average), with imported rarities like capers and porcini mushrooms. The menu changes frequently and the desserts change daily. Il Pellicano is celebrated by some for its atmosphere more than its consistency, but it remains a choice spot for a romantic evening. 

Moon Bar has made a splash as an atmospheric beach bar and "flame-fired" pizza joint on a secluded stretch of beach. This is a spot to come and play for hours: recline on daybeds, drink your "grammable" craft cocktail in the pool, or borrow paddleboards and kayaks (free for customers). The tasty, customizable pizzas are made with excellent homemade dough. At night, cool-color purple and blue lighting gives Moon Bar a sultry lunar feel. Note that this hip hangout is 18-plus. 

Someplace South is a new hot spot––or, to use an old Belizean phrase for a roadside joint, a "cool spot"––beloved for its friendly faces, delicious grub, and nooks of stylish seating. The lush courtyard is a lovely place to have brunch (their specialty, served all day) or to sip a rum drink while you wait for your Caribbean dinner. Someplace South is so refreshing you might not even miss sea views; plus, when sargassum seaweed stinks up the beach, this is a nice refuge. Live music gets going several nights a week.

Noted local chef Amy Knox has made Wild Mango's one of the most interesting dining choices in town. She calls her cooking New Wave Latin—Caribbean food infused with spicy flavors from Cuba, Argentina, and Mexico. The updated menu spotlights Belizean crops and foodways: you'll find small plates like a citrus cocoa nib salad and plantain tostones with shrimp sofrito. Snazzy large plates include cashew grouper with rich green chile beurre blanc. (Knox does not use conch or lobster, as she believes them to be unsustainable.) Wild Mango's features a handful of impressive vegetarian options. Seating is beach-casual, with high tables on a covered, open-air veranda.