12 Best Sights in Salvador and the Bahia Coast, Brazil

Recognized as one of the richest examples of baroque architecture in Brazil, this 17th-century masterpiece is a must-visit. The masonry facade is made of Portuguese sandstone, brought as ballast in shipping boats; the 16th-century tiles in the sacristy came from Macau. Inside, the engravings on the altars show the evolution of architectural styles in Bahia. Hints of Asia permeate the decoration, such as the facial features and clothing of the figures in the transept altars and the intricate ivory-and-tortoise shell inlay from Goa on the Japiassu family altar, third on the right as you enter (it is attributed to a Jesuit monk from China). The altars and ceiling are layered with gold—about 10 grams per square meter.

One of the most impressive churches in Salvador, the Church of St. Francis was built in the 18th century on the site of an earlier church that was burned down during the Dutch invasion in the early 1600s. The ceiling was painted in 1774 by José Joaquim da Rocha, who founded Brazil's first art school. The ornate cedar-and-rosewood interior is covered with images of mermaids and other fanciful creatures bathed in gold leaf. Guides say that there's as much as a ton of gold here, but restoration experts maintain there's much less. At the end of Sunday morning Mass, which begins at 8 am, the lights are switched off so you can catch the wondrous subtlety of the gold leaf under natural light. Mass is held Tuesday through Saturday beginning at 7:15 am.

When Italian-Brazilian modernist architect Lina do Bardi set about transforming this 17th-century private fazenda overlooking the sea, she created one of the world's most picturesque modern art museums. Original white and blue Portuguese tiles lead up to the former casarão (mansion), which houses a permanent modernist/contemporary collection, while the former chapel plays host to a rotating schedule of individual shows. Walk through the sculpture garden, with works from artists like Bel Borba and Mario Cravo, before taking a break in the atmospheric basement restaurant, a magic spot for watching the sunset. JAM no MAM, the Saturday evening alfresco jazz shows that kick off at 6 pm, are something not to miss.

One of the best scuba-diving spots in Brazil, Marinho de Abrolhos marine reserve, 856 km (532 miles) south of Salvador, was created to protect these remote gigantic coral reefs teeming with marine wildlife. Charles Darwin's expedition made a stop here in 1832, and noted the abundant bird, whale, turtle, and fish populations. The archipelago, 36 km (23 miles) off the coast of southern Bahia, is made up of five islands, four of which are within the park. Ilha Santa Barbara is a naval base with a lighthouse run by the Brazilian Navy. The shallow waters on the continental shelf are the Abrolhos Banks, containing one of the major coral formations in the Atlantic. Water visibility for scuba diving is best from December to March, while whale-watching season runs July to November. Only accredited boats are allowed inside the park, so look to hire a catamaran from one of the agencies in Caravelas. Excursions normally last 1–3 days.