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With nearly a thousand restaurants, Rio's dining choices are broad, from low-key Middle Eastern cafés to elegant contemporary eateries with award-winning kitchens and first-class service. The succulent offerings in the churrascarias (restaurants specializing in grilled meats) can be mesmerizing for meat lovers—especially the places that serve rodízio-style (grilled meat on skewers is continually brought to your table—until you can eat no more). Hotel restaurants often serve the national dish, feijoada (a hearty stew of black beans and pork), on Saturday—sometimes on Friday, too. Wash it down with a chopp (the local draft beer; pronounced "shop") or a caipirinha (sugarcane rum, lime, and sugar).
A lantern-lit tropical garden filled with exotic plants, monkeys, and birds is the spectacular setting for this family restaurant serving pan-Brazilian dishes and an exciting selection of Brazilian wines. The owner and chef, Ana Castilha, hails from Minas Gerais but received her formal training at New York City's French Culinary Institute. Call ahead to reserve, as weekends are reliably packed.
At the turn of the 20th century, the belle epoque structure that houses Colombo Confectionery was Rio's preeminent café, the site of elaborate balls, afternoon teas for upper-class senhoras, and a center of political intrigue and gossip. Now, visitors stop for arguably the most atmospheric coffee, melt-in-the-mouth sweet treats, and tasty salgados (savory snacks) in town while admiring the elaborate, Old-World interiors—enormous jacaranda-framed mirrors from Belgium, stained glass from France, and tiles from Portugal are among the art nouveau decor's highlights.
The post-beach hangout of choice for neighborhood locals since 1956, Jobi serves good coffee, super-chilled draft beer, and lip-smackingly delicious seafood. The restaurant is so small and unassuming, it's only after you step inside and see the many awards hanging on the walls that you realize just how special Jobi is.
Claude Troisgros, of the celebrated Michelin-starred Troisgros family of France, runs something of an empire of upscale restaurants in Rio, and this is his original and most celebrated venture. Troisgros creates the menu together with his equally talented son Thomas, applying nouvelle-cooking techniques to meals with all-Brazilian ingredients; three course or five- or seven-course tasting menus with and without wine pairings are available.
The elaborate Portuguese tilework, bow-tied waiters, and first-class seafood dishes make this lunchtime, weekday-only spot one of the top picks for an atmospheric lunch in Rio's downtown. Perch at one of the alfresco bar-stools for a more informal snack, or head inside to dine in the colonial vestiges of one of the city's oldest restaurants, serving the city's well-to-do since 1884; if you're on a budget, opt for a snack at the restaurant's more affordable back annex.
A tank of snapping lobsters and a fish counter where you can pick your catch-of-the-day ensures you'll get some of the best seafood in town. And white tablecloths, off-the-boat-fresh fish, and excellent service ensure the quality of the experience is worth the price tag.
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