5 Best Restaurants in The Northwest, Argentina

Good food and great music roll together at this peña, located in a traditional 19th-century casona which brings in both locals and visitors. Start with tiny empanadas and lashings of spicy llajua tomato sauce then follow up with pizza. Once the live music starts, the conversation stops flowing. 

The food, from steak to quinoa salad, is superb; the wine list is fairly priced; and the wooden floors, whimsical lights, and artwork make the space appealing. What's more, some evenings around 9:30 there's live music, generally performed by friends of the owners. El Nuevo Progreso is right in the center of town, with windows looking out across the small plaza.

A group of chefs launched a restaurant and catering service with high Andean cuisine as its goal—"high" referring to both the altitude and the gourmet techniques. The result is José Balcarce, in a brick-and-wood building with large windows just two blocks from bustling Balcarce Street. The menu is short, and the service can be slow, but the creative dishes—using local ingredients such as quinoa and llama—are delicious.

For a contemporary spin on regional delicacies, head to Los Morteros. The llama in Malbec, fresh grilled trout, and succulent lamb stew are all noteworthy picks; this busy spot also cooks up a sizzling barbecue worth ordering for its smell alone. Reservations are a good idea.  Check out Los Morteros' wine cellar—it mostly stocks regional wines made at high altitudes.

The menu at this unassuming picanteria (restaurant specializing in spicy foods) has everything from trout to rabbit, but llama or quinoa are the dishes to try: give them a go as an empanada starter. Less adventurous eaters can sample one of the pasta dishes. Named after an Andean god, Viracocha has helpful staff, and the atmosphere amid the yellow walls and arches is happily relaxed.