16 Best Restaurants in San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland, Mexico

A sound track of light jazz plays in the background at this quaint, small restaurant facing Plaza Vasco de Quiroga. Sit at the outdoor tables under the arcade—or indoors, which feels like a shop from bygone days, with shelves packed with liqueurs, nuts, cookies, jams, candies, candles, and other items for sale. Coffee is made fresh from the espresso machine, but you can still get a free refill. The friendly and knowledgeable waiters will patiently explain the unusual dishes, such as huevos tarascos (fried eggs on a corn tortilla topped with corn kernels, thick melted cheese, and a dark chile negro sauce). For lunch or dinner get trout any style, salmon in four-cheese sauce, or mushrooms sautéed in garlic, chili, and tequila. The menu is refreshingly varied and the service refreshingly attentive.

Within the gracious Rosewood San Miguel de Allende, Restaurant 1826 conveys both ease and sophistication. The upholstered chairs are comfortable enough to linger over various courses. Flavors represented on the international menu—a small but inspired collection of plates—are subtle, with unusual seasonings that truly please the palate. Sinfully large and calorie-laden desserts include a volcano of semisweet chocolate (in presentations from ground to molten), with a fig compote and rosemary ice cream. Almost-floor-to-ceiling windows frame the large, rectangular space, and the artwork of local luminaries like Marilo Carral grace the walls. A pre- or postdinner drink on the rooftop bar, La Luna, offers incredible 360-degree views of the city. Breakfast (starting at 7 am) and lunch offer more Mexican dishes. Cooking classes with chef Victor Palma and expansive Sunday brunchathons happen on the outdoor patio.

Guanajuato natives and newbies in the know head to this family-run Santa Rosa hideaway for homemade dishes in a country atmosphere. The setting is rustic, with simple tile floors, metal folding chairs, and plain tablecloths, but the fresh, home-style chiles rellenos and chicken in mole more than make up for it. House specialties are mixiote de borrego (lamb baked in foil and served in a rich broth) and cecina seca de res (air-dried beef), both served with frijoles, salsas, guacamole, and fresh tortillas. It's an excellent place for breakfast, lunch, or a (very) early dinner en route to shopping at Mayolicas Santa Rosa. A few hundred yards off the highway, along a dirt road, it's about 15 to 20 minutes northeast of La Valenciana, en route to Dolores Hidalgo. Look for small signs announcing "Cabaña de Lolita" and "Puente de Barrilito."

This diner is trimmed with paintings and sketches given to the owner by famous people who've eaten here, including a small acrylic by Rafael Coronel. Sip a strong Turkish coffee while watching the locals flood in for breakfast. The chilaquiles verdes (fried tortilla strips smothered in tangy green sauce and white cheese) comes with a basket of pastries and bread. Mild enchiladas zacatecanas are filled with cheese, onion, and chili, and topped with cream. Traditional café fare like hamburgers, sandwiches, and fruity shakes is available for lunch.

At this innocuous looking, traditional, family-run restaurant you'll find some of the best examples of local cuisine. Look for the fish specials and the triangular tamale-like corundas with cream sauce, which are also great for breakfast, as are the Spanish omelet and the French toast. There are also several good coffee concoctions.

This restaurant, named after Querétaro's version of Robin Hood, is on the quiet Plaza de Armas. It's strong on regional dishes like goat-filled tacos and shrimp with nopal (cactus) and corundas (a kind of tamale from the neighboring state of Michoacán). Right next door, Restaurant 1810 offers much the same fare.

Locals in the know duck into this low-key restaurant on weekends to avoid annoying itinerant vendors or to grab a spiked cappuccino or glass of Mexican wine. Try the whitefish, pink trout, or pechuga de pollo (chicken breast) stuffed with huitlacoche and breaded in Parmesan cheese. For a snack go for a plate of quesadillas with a side order of guacamole. Breakfast is good, too.

This family-owned restaurant is known for its friendly service and casual atmosphere. It has great breakfast options, including eggs Benedict and waffles, which are available until noon to aid late risers. At lunch and dinner light fare predominates, including salads and sandwiches, but there are full meals as well, such as grilled chicken with lovely steamed veggies, and the popular chiles en nogada (mild chili peppers stuffed with an elaborate ground-meat mixture and topped with walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds). Desserts are all made in-house. Don't miss the new rooftop bar, up several flights of stairs, with exceptional downtown views.

There are 25 steaming plates of traditional Mexican dishes to choose from at this rustic, full-buffet diner. Lunch will likely include Spanish rice, beans, pollo en mole (chicken in mole sauce), fresh salads, and aguas frescas (fruit water). Prices are reasonable. Hours are 8:30–12:30 for breakfast and 1:30–7 pm for lunch and early dinner.

Across the street from the Teatro de la República, this sunny, colorful restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine such as arrachera, enchiladas queretanas (with cheese, potatoes, and cream), and pechuga fin de siglo (chicken breast filled with zucchini blossoms and cheese and topped with a zucchini-blossom sauce), all served with homemade corn tortillas hot off the griddle. On weekends there's an extensive buffet luncheon.

This restaurant overlooking the cathedral might not have the best food in Morelia, but it has the most iconic view. All-glass windows separate four-top tables from a wraparound balcony, where you can have a predinner drink. The menu is a bit stuffy, but not offensively so—its core is formed by Mexican dishes with some fusion touches. The tequila list is extensive, and you'll find a half-dozen high-end mezcals, too. Both the bar and restaurant close at 5 pm on Sunday.

A wrought-iron mariposa (butterfly) overlooks the entrance of this cafeteria-like local favorite. Although it's been popular since the 1940s for breakfast, coffee and cake, or a light Mexican lunch of tacos, tamales, enchiladas, or tortas (sandwiches), the food is underwhelming. Cakes can be stale or simply nondescript, although the tacos are good. It's more of an institution than a culinary experience. Don't plan on this for a main meal.

Morelia's current hot spot serves Michoacán cuisine, and not just the ubiquitous whitefish and corundas found at tourist-oriented eateries. Diners choose a seat under the popular portico facing the Plaza de Armas, or inside, where large, open windows overlook the same scene. Otherwise, the plain dining room is brightened only by original paintings and prints of Michoacán scenes. Sample a salad of jicama bloom with cotija (a dry, white cheese produced in the area); tamales of tender new corn; green ceviche; and other upscale versions of classic regional fare. For under MX$300, there's a four-course tasting menu consisting of starter, seasonal salad, main dish, and dessert. How about some chocolate blended with hot chilies and mezcal and topped with avocado ice cream? It's open for unusual breakfast treats, too.

Locals go to Lupita on a regular basis for the large menu, reasonable prices, and easygoing atmosphere. There are several rooms inside with tables but, weather permitting, most folks choose the open patio with equipale (pigskin) chairs, umbrella tables, and colorful walls and tablecloths. There are breakfasts from light to full; and for lunch and dinner, five soups and seven salads to choose from, as well as antojitos (snacks like tacos and burgers; tostadas with guacamole), seven pasta dishes, and a full gamut of seafood and meat dishes. There's Wi-Fi and an honor-system lending library up the back stairs.

As you sit at umbrella-shaded tables in a gracious courtyard framed by bougainvillea, serenaded by Mexican music, you'll be transported back to a simpler Mexico. The margaritas are good, and the menu is interesting, from a well-developed pozole verde (a rich soup made with hominy) to juicy cochinita pibíl (pork baked in banana leaf) with black beans and the traditional pickled onions. The enchiladasMéxico Lindo and enchiladas mineras are also crowd-pleasers. The restaurant is out in the quiet residential neighborhood of La Presa de la Olla, a nice neighborhood for a walk, and it opens at 9 am for breakfast if you're out early.

It can get chilly in winter; make sure to wear warm clothing.

Totally local yet beloved by visitors, this place is the real deal, morning, noon, and night. Multigenerational Mexican families dine among a spattering of granola-crunchy tourists, all comfortably ensconced within several chummy spaces. At breakfast, egg dishes reign supreme, and enfrijoladas (corn tortillas layered with refried beans, cheese, and sour cream) are an excellent choice. It's also hard to go wrong with the traditional lunch plates, which include enmoladas (tortillas bathed in mole sauce and baked), enchiladas (the same, but in a spicier sauce), and chicken dishes. It's open later than most spots in town.