14 Best Sights in Esch-sur-Alzette and the Redlands, Luxembourg

Just 7 km (4½ miles) east of Esch-sur-Alzette, Dudelange is known as the most “Mediterranean” town in Luxembourg. It's certainly not for the weather. It stems from the fact that around 70% of its 17,000 residents are of Italian or Portuguese heritage, as the descendants of immigrant workers who came here at the height of the mining boom. At the heart of its Little Italy neighborhood, in an old railway station, you can seek out the Centré de Documentation sur les Migrations Humaines (www.cdmh.lu), one of the more enlightening exhibitions and tours in the Grand Duchy, exploring the country's rich history of migration and occupation. This town certainly has a long history of visitors. Romans first set up camp here at the base of what is now Mt. St.-Jean. The site was later a stop during the Crusades, and by the 12th century it was the location of a church built for the Order of the Brethren of St. Jean of Jerusalem. The current castle ruins—which include the foundation, a small chapel, and a tower—date from the 1550s. Atop Mt. St.-Jean, the commanding view south stares deep into France.

This small valley lies around 10 km (6 miles) northwest of Esch-sur-Alzette, and was once the heart of the country's mining industry, connected via a pair of railway lines: one to ship equipment and ore in and out of nearby Pétange; another to transport the workers to the mining village of Lasauvage or into France. It was still operating by the 1960s. In summer, visitors can ride trains into the old mining tunnels, pedal a "draisine" (€10) along the tracks, see rail and mining museums, and tour the old villages where the miners once lived. July also sees the arrival of blues and steampunk festivals. 

Luxembourg was deeply scarred by World War II. The Musée de la Résistance honors its Resistance fighters and is the home of the country's Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Exhibits focus on the plight of Luxembourg's Jewish population and other communities that were lost during the war. It has recently been renovated in time for its 2022 reopening. 

You can pick up the map for this architectural walk (free) at the tourism office in town. The route is a breezy 5 km (3 miles) and is a great way to explore a city that, on the surface at least, doesn't appear all that attractive at first. Much of the center was built at the turn of the 20th century, as the iron-ore industry gathered steam. Architects were shipped in from France, Belgium, and Germany, with the era's dominating styles of neo-Gothic, Art Deco, and Art Nouveau seen across magnificent turreted corner houses, the stately town hall, and imperious mansions built for the moguls of the era. 

In the early 1900s, the town's Belval neighborhood was home to the biggest ironworks site in Luxembourg. The last furnace was decommissioned in 1997 and the complex now houses a university and the country's biggest music venue, Rockhal. The renovated Furnace A is now open to the public. 

With over half of Luxembourg's population being foreign-born, immigration-related issues are central to the country's economic, political, and cultural structure. At the Centré de Documentation sur les Migrations Humaines these issues are explored through rotating exhibitions. In the heart of Dudelange's Little Italy neighborhood in an old railway station, this enlightening museum is considered one of the most important throughout the grand duchy.

The largest and oldest church in Esch-sur-Alzette was built in neo-Gothic style by Charles Arendt, a truly prolific state architect who designed and restored many buildings across Luxembourg in the prewar years. Inside you'll find some impressive murals. 

Eglise St-Martin is considered the grand duchy's second most important church, after Notre-Dame in Luxembourg City. The intricate and masterful blue mosaics that grace the ceiling dome were created in the 1920s by the monk Notker Becker, and the dramatic representations of the Stations of the Cross were done by Dominique Lang, one of Luxembourg's most famous painters and a native of Dudelange.

Around 2 km (1 mile) south of the city lies the nature reserve of Ellergron, a former ore extraction zone that has been rewilded. The best way to get there is to walk. Take the lift next to the railway station to the bridge over the tracks and you'll find yourself in Gaalgebierg park. From there, the reserve is well signed. Once you arrive, a visitor center outlines the surrounding trails. You'll also find the Musée Mine Cockerill (Cockerill Mining Museum), which is set in the old mine workings that date back to 1887, now mostly inhabited by bats. By 1929, it was hauling 422,000 tons of ore out of the ground, fueling the country's economic boom. Interesting displays and relics scatter the old mine, dissecting its history. 

This cheerful government-run animal sanctuary perches high in the Gaalgebierg hills above the town. The walk up is a bracing plod through the forest park, and once there, you'll find an array of ancient domestic species, including deer, big-horned sheep, goats, and cattle. The tree-house café, in particular, is a congenial spot to while away a lunch hour. Note: there's no public transport here that doesn't require a 20-minute walk. 

Romans first set up a military camp at the base of what is now Mount St-Jean in AD 275. The site was later a stop during the First Crusade, and by the 12th century, the location of a monastery built for the Order of St. Jean of Jerusalem. The current castle ruins—which include the foundation, a small chapel, and a tower—date from the 1550s, and are cared for by the local historical society. Atop Mt. St-Jean, the commanding view goes deep into Luxembourg to the north and France to the south.

In a grand mansion once occupied by a wealthy steel baron, the Musée Municipal has two distinct missions. On the first level, exhibits focus on archaeological artifacts and historical objects such as fossils and weapons, some of which were excavated from Mt. St-Jean. The gallery upstairs shows contemporary art and has the country's only public art space specifically devoted to contemporary photography.

The 240-hectare Parc L'eh, which spans the French border, is a product of the area's enthusiasm for green, open spaces. Hiking trails crisscross the border through forests, meadows, and stands of wildflowers. If you're lucky you may spot some of Luxembourg's rare orchids, a testament to the landscape's rich mineral deposits. No matter the season, this is a delightful natural escape.

The Parc Merveilleux has rides, a petting zoo, a toy train, and miniature golf among its facilities. If you're traveling with kids, this is a great place to let them blow off some steam.