12 Best Sights in Kvarner, Croatia

Tucked into a well-protected bay midway down the island, Cres Town is set around a lovely little fishing harbor, small but perfectly formed, with numerous Gothic and Renaissance churches, monasteries, and palaces. For the most part these are in the Old Town, which sits protected by winged Venetian lions atop three 16th-century gates, the only remains of a defensive wall. A small harbor (Mandrać), as well as a municipal loggia built in the 15th-century, remain the soul of the town.

The town beach, at Camp Kovačine, holds a Blue Flag award for cleanliness. To get there, follow the path around the harbor from the main road and keep going for at least 15 minutes along the promenade, where you'll find spots to jump into the water and the odd café or restaurant to keep you fueled. Although the seaside here is man-made, it somehow doesn't detract too much from the experience.

A fine spot from which to admire the splendors of the Kvarner Bay, the Kastav—11 km (7 miles) northwest of Rijeka—was originally a medieval fortress comprising nine defensive towers. The old hilltop village sits at 1,200 feet and is still home to some 900 residents. The backside of the hilltop village is blanketed by a forest area with biking, hiking, and horseback riding trails leading from the loggia to the woods. The town is a popular venue for regular events throughout the year, from the monthly Zeleni Kastav organic green market to the summer Kastav Blues and Cultural Festival, the Bela Nedeja young white wine festival in October, and the traditional bell ringers during the Carnival season in February. Having been home to wealthy and powerful clans in the past, the tiny town has many splendid buildings from throughout the ages. E-bike rentals are available at the forest entrance.

In terms of its importance and the pride of the 4,000 locals, the island's capital could perhaps even be called a city. It's not completely clear when the old city walls were first built, but the oldest mention of the walls dates back to the 1st century BC. The present-day walls, however, date mainly to the Middle Ages and have four gates. The seafront has a pleasant green area that takes you past cafés and a fish market, while the main square, Vela Placa, sits just behind the first row of houses. There's a beach underneath the town walls with a lovely view of the town.

The old town hall on Vela Placa was built in the 15th century. Its clock shows all 24 hours: daytime on the upper part, nighttime on the lower. Krk Town has two well-known visual anchors. The first is the imposing citadel that sits on Trg Kamplin. The bell tower of St. Quirinus is the other, with its angular onion dome typical of Krk.

Just 5 km (3 miles) southwest of Opatija, the lovely town of Lovran is home to good swimming coves, Habsburg villas, and paths up to Mt. Učka Nature Park. Massive chestnut trees dot the medieval town, giving shady relief from the sun on long summer days. If the crowds of Opatija leave you no place for peace and quiet, walk along the Lungomare through Ičići and Ika (or take Bus No. 32) to Lovran, where you can take in the sea air that lured Austrian royalty to winter here. If you find yourself on the Opatija Riviera in October, don't miss Lovran's Marunada (Chestnut Festival). 

One of the most tempting beaches on the island is on the western coast of Cres at the foot of a steep cliff, at the top of which is the tiny village of Lubenice, which offers great views out to sea and up the western coast. This picturesque collection of houses that surrounds the 15th-century Church of St. Anthony the Hermit has been clinging to its outcrop for around 4,000 years. The hamlet is popular among artsy types and hosts exhibitions and music performances in the summer. From the beach below, a short walk through vineyards will bring you to Žanja Cove, which has a blue grotto, a cave at water level that fills with brilliant blue light as strong sunlight filters through the azure water.

If you're looking for a more secluded spot, head to this town that sits just above the beaches that trim a wide cove and peninsula. The road here is a single track through the tiny village, so you may find yourself performing intricate maneuvers in your car should you be unlucky enough to meet the water truck that keeps the village's houses supplied. Unless you arrive by boat, it is best to park in the first empty spot you see and walk into town or down the hill to the beach.

The sea captains of Veli Lošinj evidently preferred to escape the harsh working conditions of life on the sea while they were back on land, so they built their villas away from the waterfront, often surrounding themselves with gardens filled with exotic plants brought back from their travels. Archduke Karl Stephan built a winter residence in Veli Lošinj that is now a sanatorium surrounded by wonderful gardens, with a range of exotic plants and an arboretum. It's possible to spend the night in the sanatorium, even if you are healthy. A short walk beyond the main harbor is the quaint fishing cove of Rovenska. Beyond that, there's a pebble beach and several inviting restaurants. The breakwater was established by Archduke Maximilian I.

This clifftop town on the northeast coast of the island offers majestic views of the Velebit Mountains and a bird's-eye view of the crystal clear waters far below. Clustered on a hilltop 157 feet above a small harbor, it's a mass of confusing winding streets. As you traverse the town on foot you will find many corners where long staircases suddenly arise due to the steep terrain. As one of the oldest settlements on Krk, Vrbnik can feel a a little ramshackle, but this more lends to the charm than distracts from it. The fragrance of old wine barrels is ubiquitous on Vrbnik, and it is likely that they were once filled with Žlahtina, a local white wine that some claim is the best from the Kvarner region. The vineyards are just a short hop from town.

On the southern end of the island, this town has a great beach as well as the conveniences of civilization. However, this means that you must sometimes fight to find a spot in season. The 2-km (1-mile) beach is fronted by colorfully painted houses (and hotels at the southern end) and adorned with interesting nooks and stairways, all lending a fun and slightly eccentric air to the town. Cute backstreets behind the houses offer a selection of cozy cafés and a plethora of ice-cream shops.

With 8,000 inhabitants sheltered around an inlet, Mali Lošinj is the largest island settlement in the Adriatic. In the 19th century, Mali and Veli Lošinj experienced a golden age when many wealthy sea captains lived on the island. Brightening the waterfront, the mansions and villas they constructed contributed greatly to the town's appeal. There are a handful of churches to wander into and take in the sense of history and time that has been well preserved by the island's faithful. The 15th-century St. Martin's Church was the original centerpiece around which the town was built but is now a bit decrepit, though its ominous presence with a tall square tower and pointed top are hard to miss. At the base of the tower is a cemetery where the history of the town's past residents is collected. If you wish to dig a bit deeper, the Church of Our Little Lady (aka Church of the Nativity of Our Lord) houses many fine examples of religious art.

At the southwestern tip of Cres is the town of Osor, whose strategic position on the channel between the islands of Cres and Lošinj ensured that wealth flowed into the town from trade ships. Famous for its garden sculptures, a wander through this well-preserved medieval town makes for a pleasant afternoon in an exceptionally tranquil location. There's even a cathedral, reflecting its former status, and many important archaeological sites have been discovered in the vicinity.

Across the bay from Cres, the village of Valun has a nice beach. The town's claim to fame is the Valun Tablet, a gravestone that is one of the oldest known examples of Glagolitic script. The tablet is now kept in the parish church, right on the waterfront. Get to Valun by car or by taking the wooden boat that sits just outside the Cres Harbor wall; it's easily spotted from the main square.