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Most of the restaurants on Vieques and Culebra are casual. Because even the most formal restaurants on the islands are on covered terraces or in open-air dining rooms, there's not a single establishment where you'll be frowned upon for wearing shorts. Pack a couple of nice shirts and you'll be set.
Seafood is on the menu at almost every eatery on Vieques and Culebra. The fish is as fresh as you'll find anywhere, since that red snapper was probably splashing around in the Caribbean that very morning. Here you can order your fish any number of ways. Many chefs are experimenting with European and Asian cooking techniques, so you may find your fish smoked or in a sushi roll.
Even if a restaurant focuses on a different type of food, you can be sure that mangos, papayas, and other tropical fruits will make an appearance. Bills often include a service charge; if it isn't included, a 15% tip is customary. Most restaurants are open for dinner from about 6 until about 10.
Overlooking the Caribbean in Esperanza and geared to tourists, this longtime, open-air favorite has playful rain-forest murals climbing its walls. Claim a spot at one of the curvy, teal-colored, concrete tables or under an umbrella out front, and order the red snapper sandwich (popular at lunchtime) or the jerk chicken. Salads are excellent, including the Caribbean (field greens with mango, avocado, and plantain), but be sure to save room for the namesake dish: deep-fried bananas with finger-lickin' hot honey sauce. When the sun goes down, Bananas is one of the hot spots on this side of the island.
This Mexican-inspired restaurant is a lively dinner spot. They offer a fresh catch of the day and classic cocktails like margaritas and mojitos. The menu has limited quantities so go earlier in the evening to have the full array of choices.
This restaurant takes its name from the nearby site of Culebra's heaviest traffic—the arrival and departure of the water taxi. The menu leans toward grilled meats, from hamburgers and wraps to sirloin steaks. If you're stopping by for lunch, make sure it's before 3, when the kitchen closes to prepare for dinner. Daily specials often highlight the restaurant's forte: creole-style seafood, including swordfish and yellowtail, as well as lobster. The adjacent open-air bar is usually packed with expats and a whole cast of local characters. It can get noisy, and the service is anything but doting, so don't expect a quiet dinner for two.
At some point during your time in Vieques, you should end up at Duffy's, the island's most popular hangout, where customers tend to sit elbow-to-elbow around the bar (the owner is a real character, and locals love to to chew the fat with him). Don't dismiss the food, though: in addition to burgers, fries, and other standards, there are chalkboard specials like conch fritters, scallop ceviche, grilled rib eye, or pan-seared pork loin—all a cut above the usual beach fare. Wraps, sandwiches, and fried finger foods round out the menu.
Pull your dinghy up to the dock, and watch the resident iguanas plod past this simple, open-air, tin-roof restaurant on a rough-plank deck beside the Dewey canal. Tarpon cruise past, and the to-and-fro of boaters completes the show at Culebra's favorite watering hole and gringo hangout. Mamacita's menu changes nightly; though heavy on burgers and sandwiches, it includes some excellent seafood. Hours vary by season.
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