Fodor's Expert Review Hotel Catharina Paraguaçu

A long-standing favorite in the Rio Vermelho district, this quirky 19th-century mansion is full of character, offering friendly service, delicious breakfasts, and small but comfortable rooms. If you're looking for space, ask for one of the six split-level suites. Extra attention is devoted to the decor, which includes pottery and embroidery from local artisans, although certain details, such as the air-conditioning units and mattresses, could do with an update. There is one wheelchair-accessible room for guests with disabilities, unusual for a small hotel.