Fodor's Expert Review Roofers Union

The cavernous space that once hosted one of the capital's most notoriously crazy bars is now a symbol of the area's maturation, thanks to a slick makeover and classy comfort-food lineup. The hearty but well-designed fare includes a fried-chicken sandwich redolent of sriracha sauce that will rock a spice-lover's world. If the food ever feels a touch too pub-grubby, look to the airy interiors and funky design—anchored by a splendid rooftop deck—and cultured cocktail menu for a taste of how highbrow a former college haunt can be.