Fodor's Expert Review The Would

This white-tablecloth restaurant was once a resort catering to Italian families from New York City; boccie is still played here on summer evenings. The food is no throwback, however; organic produce and poultry blend with ingredients and techniques from around the world. Grilled salmon is served with a cucumber-jalapeno salsa, pan-seared chicken is complemented by shiitake mushrooms, and grilled tuna is accompanied by sweet soy and wasabi. In winter a fireplace warms the dining room.