Fodor's Expert Review Cuenllas

Epitomizing old-world luxury, Cuenllas (KWEN-yas) is Moncloa's most venerable dining establishment, in business since 1939. After sitting down at the bar or in the dining room for a meal of Spanish bistro fare (think warm salt-cod brandade, Santoña anchovy canapés, and marinated partridge) accompanied by reserva wines, peruse the adjoining Ultramarinos gourmet shop for edible souvenirs including caviar, cheeses, wines, and homemade charcuterie.