Fodor's Expert Review Racines

Originally a cave à manger (a wine bar/bistro) serving natural wines and top-quality French fare, the foodie world rejoiced when adulated chef Simone Tondo took the helm and introduced a small but stellar menu of Italian comfort dishes mixed with French stalwarts. The old tile floors, wooden tables, and location in the atmospheric Passage des Panoramas, Paris's oldest covered arcade, only add to the ambience. Since earning a Michelin star, it's utterly packed at mealtimes (and quite noisy for those with tender eardrums), so be sure to reserve in advance.