Fodor's Expert Review Lapérouse

Self-described as a Maison de Plaisir (House of Pleasure) since 1766, this 17th-century wood-paneled town house flaunts its naughty history with a dark, boudoir-style decor; Émile Zola, George Sand, and Victor Hugo were regulars here, and the restaurant's mirrors still bear diamond scratches from the days when mistresses would use them to double-check the value of their jewels. The classic menu includes caviar and truffle-flavored specials. For a truly intimate meal, reserve one of the legendary private salons where anything can happen (and probably has).