Havana Restaurants

Shortages of raw materials and a bureaucratized approach to food preparation in state-owned restaurants have produced many a mediocre meal, but with the privateer restaurants leading the way, Cuban cuisine is coming back. For the best cooking in Havana, seek out the paladares (privately owned establishments; the name, which literally means "palates," was cribbed from a popular Brazilian soap opera in which the heroine makes her fortune with a roadside restaurant named "El Paladar de Raquel"). Call ahead to reserve a table if you go to a paladar, and never believe a taxi driver who swears to you that the place is closed; he gets a commission for taking you to the place he is flacking for.

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  • 1. Paladar Maeda

    $ | Habana del Este

    In a small residential area on top of a hill in Guanabo, this charming paladar is the best in town. What's more is that it actually does feel like you're dining in someone's home, unlike some of Havana's more modern paladares. Here you'll dine on modern Cuban classics and an excellent array of fresh seafood dishes, in a pretty garden, filled with flowers, grape vines, and trickling fountains. Try the grilled fish with salsa verde. There are no vegetarian choices on the menu, but if you ask, they'll make you up a giant parilla de verduras (grilled platter of mixed vegetables), straight from the barbecue. If you like it, you can even opt to stay here, as they also have a couple of rooms for rent upstairs.

    Calle Quebec 115, e/Calles 476 y 478, Havana, La Habana, 10900, Cuba
    7796–2615
  • 2. Cafe de los Artistas

    $ | La Habana Vieja

    Located down the trendy Callejón de Peluquerros, lined with new paladares, bars, and art galleries, this eatery offers some of the tastiest and most innovative cuisine in Havana Vieja. Think Cuban-style fajitas or wild rice with peanuts and curry. Vegetarians will be delighted with the choices, which include a savory eggplant cake, topped with a tomato salsa and melted cheese. The decor here matches the excellent food, with bare brick walls, original tiles, stained glass windows, and old black-and-white photos lining the walls.

    Calle Aguiar 22 e/Ave. de las Misiones y Pena Pobre, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7866--2418
  • 3. Hanoi

    $ | Centro Habana

    Also known as Casa de la Parra (House of the Grape Arbor), this simple, yet elegant restaurant only specializes in typical criollo and Cuban food, despite the name. Sit inside under old wooden beams or outside on the patio under shady grape vines while dining on the classic menu that includes such dishes as morros y cristianos (rice and beans), boniato cocido (boiled yam), various grilled meats, and fish and vegetable fried rice. Although the price is right, make sure to check your bill before paying as sometimes they overcharge.

    Calle Brasil (Teniente Rey) y Calle Bernaza, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
    7867–1029

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 4. Jardín del Oriente

    $ | La Habana Vieja

    Those on a budget should try this lovely little place located in the gardens of Café del Oriente, which is just around the corner. A favorite with locals on their lunch break, tables are set among the tropical plants and trickling fountains, and it's always packed. Typical Cuban fare is served, as well as an array of filled baguettes. Portions are big and you won't pay more than CUC$5 for any of the main meals.

    Calle Amargura 12, e/Oficios y Mercaderes, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7860--6686
  • 5. La Flor de Loto

    $ | Centro Habana

    While both its decor, neighborhood, and context may be Chinese, this restaurant has very little to do with the Orient. (Frankly, rare is the Asiatic face at any Havana Chinese eatery.) Very popular with locals, there's always a queue halfway out the door. The restaurant's menu includes a wide variety of food that is popular with Cubans. The grilled chicken criollo-style is grand and not dry at all, while the shrimp in a cream sauce is delicious. Prepare yourself for king-size portions. Daily offerings and the chef's selections are stapled to the menu daily.

    Havana, La Habana, 10200, Cuba
    7860--8501

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
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  • 6. Los Nardos

    $ | Centro Habana

    Situated right across from the Capitolio, it might be easy to miss Los Nardos if it wasn't for the long queues. Popular among locals, hefty portions of red snapper, rabbit or chicken and lamb stew are served up daily. There's virtually no exterior signage, and the restaurant is decorated with locally crafted wooden lamps, tables, and chairs, giving the dining room an eclectic decor and a romantic ambience. Make sure that you are on the first floor—and not the upper floor, which is another less stellar eatery.

    Paseo del Prado 563, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
    7863–2985

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 7. Nao Bar Paladar

    $ | La Habana Vieja

    Located in a quiet alley near the waterfront, this cozy and intimate paladar serves up tasty Cuban dishes with an emphasis on seafood. Seated under old wooden beams and surrounded by colorful antique lamps, you can sit back and enjoy the rhythms of the house band Legendario Havana. Try the Cuban tamales or malanga fritters with honey to start, followed by the giant mermaid lobster or fresh catch of the day. Like most places in Havana, you won't find many vegetarian options on the menu, but the staff here will be happy to cook up something special for you if you ask (and it won't just be an omelet or rice and beans).

    Calle Obispo 1 e/San Pedro y Baratillo, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7867–3463
  • 8. Paladar el Piccolo

    $ | Habana del Este

    This place is a little far out of town, but hitch a ride on one of Guanabo's quaint horse and carts, and for a couple of CUC's, you'll be there in no time. Set in a rustic dining room with a large outdoor patio and open kitchen, this lively paladar serves some of the best pizzas you will find in the whole of Cuba. Watch as your pizza is cooked in a traditional wood-fired oven in front of you.

    Ave. 5 y Calle 502, Havana, La Habana, 10900, Cuba
    796–4300
  • 9. Restaurante Europa

    $ | La Habana Vieja

    From its beginnings as the 19th-century Europa Café, the onetime famous colonial-style café and candy shop has reopened as a restaurant serving Cuban and international cuisine. As is typical here, a band plays live Cuban music, greeting visitors walking down Obispo towards the port. Dishes are uninspiring, but if you just want a cheap and simple lunch, this place is good. Plates include basic grilled chicken fillets, traditional Cuban hashed beef, and simple sandwiches cooked by chef Ernesto. There's an extensive cocktail list and an impressively stocked bar. As is often the case in Cuba, the restaurant even sells tobacco products.

    Calle Obispo 112, adjacent to Aguiar, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7866–4484

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 10. Taberna El Molino

    $ | La Habana Vieja

    Located at the rear of the quiet and elegant Hotel Marqués de Prado Ameno, the decor here is simple and understated and dishes range from alluring fare like grilled seafood, langoustines, or filet mignon to the simple, homey stuffed chicken and vegetables that Cubans seem to favor. The best options are its two signature dishes—cider chicken or honey pork. Desserts are uninspiring, including such standbys as cheesecake, chocolate cake, and ice cream, but try the strong but tasty Café Cubano to top off your meal.

    Calle O'Reilly 253, e/Cuba y Aguiar, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7862–4127

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 11. Tien-Tan

    $ | Centro Habana

    Its name means "heaven's temple" in Mandarin, and this temple to Chinese cuisine has enough worshippers that you'll be lucky to find a spot inside. No matter, though, as there are tables outside as well—all the better for watching passersby on Chinatown's wildest street. Prices vary wildly depending on what you order, and while the food is cooked by Chinese chef Xio Luo, it could be a little fresher. Certain dishes (such as the crispy duck) must be ordered in advance.

    Calle Cuchillo 17, e/Calle Zanja y Calle San Nicolas, Havana, La Habana, 10200, Cuba
    7861–5478

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards
  • 12. Vistamar

    $ | Miramar

    Overlooking the Straits of Florida, this cozy little paladar is set in an attractive Miramar home, and provides alfresco dining with, as its name suggests, fine views—well, at sunset anyway (at night, it's blacker than Hades out there). The dishes are good quality and specialties include octopus and lobster tails. The lemon pie also comes highly recommended. Spectacular views, good food, and live Cuban tunes—what more could you ask for?

    Av. 1, No. 2206, e/Calle 22 y Calle 24, Havana, La Habana, 11500, Cuba
    7203–8328

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential, No credit cards

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