Fodor's Expert Review Kuroyu Onsen

One of seven rustic ryokan in the Nyuto area, this one is the coziest, but no rooms have a private bath, though several categories (including the Western-style rooms) have private toilets in the room. The water in the onsen is milky white and cool enough that even babies can bathe in it. In addition to three outdoor and five indoor pools, there's a waterfall to massage—rather strongly—your stiff shoulders. The accommodations are all basic tatami rooms, and the two meals are typical Japanese fare. Don't miss tasty, half-cooked onsen eggs at breakfast. Families often rent the remote cottage that has a fully equipped kitchen, dining area, and living room. Best of all, the staff here are genuinely friendly and helpful.