amardhaliwal6609

Another opportunity to spend some time in Europe, found us flying in and out of the lovely city of Nice. In between we would spend the best part of a month in Andalucia.

On our last couple of trips to Europe, we have chosen to fly with Air France from Vancouver. While this does mean a connection in Paris (which can be interesting), we have found that tickets to second hop cities are often cheaper than a ticket to Paris (even though you pass through Paris). It’s crazy, but true in our experience.

We chose Nice (and southern Spain) because we were looking to eke out as much winter sun as we could and quite honestly the airfares we found were so reasonable they made the decision for us.

I had been to Nice once before (to watch some of European Championship in 2016) and had fond memories of the city, albeit through the lens of a boy's trip.

Turns out that my memories were accurate, it really is a lovely place. Beautiful location, lovely old town and harbour, great food and wine. One could easily settle in and spend weeks here to explore both Nice and the vicinity.

As it was the middle of February the town was in partial hibernation – several of the most important museums closed, many bars and restaurants (especially around the harbour) shuttered, and blissfully not many tourists around. Apart from the first day, the weather was decent with enough sunshine to enjoy the promenade and views.

Will definitely be coming back and spending more time.



STAYING (prices are from February 2024)

AC Hotel Nice (map)

• Nice modern hotel just off the Promenade De Anglais. A nice 15-minute walk to the old town along the promenade or a quick trip on Tram Line 2 (the nearest stop, Centre Universitaire Méditerranéen, is just a 5-minute walk away).
• The rooms are spacious enough and well equipped. The staff are both friendly and efficient. I can imagine that in the summer, the rooftop pool and bar must be a brilliant place to hang out. Not so much in February….
• Stayed here on a Bonvoy points redemption.
• Highly recommended.

Sheraton Nice Airport Hotel (map)

• This was a strange one.
• The Sheraton at Nice Airport is a sparkling new hotel, designed primarily for the business traveller. We stayed here on our way back home because we had a very early flight and figured being at the airport would be the smart thing to do. Didn’t really turn out that way.
• The hotel is nice enough, if a bit sterile. Rooms are modern and of a decent size. Beds are comfortable and the bathrooms are just fine. There is a bar and restaurant with a regular hotel type menu.
• The hotel is a 5-minute walk from Terminal 1. If you are flying in to or out of Terminal 2, you simply take the free tram (Line 2) from Terminal 2 to Terminal 1 (or vice versa) and then walk.
• Problem is that the tram does not start running until 5.00am, so if you need to be at Terminal 2 by 5.00am or earlier then you need to take a cab or uber. At that time, they both charge a night rate so you will have to pay €35.00 to €50.00 for a cab or €25.00 to €35.00 for an uber for a 4-minute ride!!!
• Nice’s tram system is fantastic and it’s easy to get into town from the Airport. Quick tip - if you buy a ticket from Terminal 1 or Terminal 2, getting into town it will cost you €10.00. If you take the tram (for free) and get off at the first stop outside the airport, which is called Grand Arenas, and then buy your ticket it will cost you €1.70 for a single ticket or €7.00 for a 24-hour ticket. Many people were doing this.
• We stayed at the Sheraton Nice on a Bonvoy points and cash redemption.
• Recommended for a business stay only, and only then if you have a flight after 7.00am from Terminal 2. Would not stay here again for a leisure trip.
  

EATING (prices are from February 2024)

Les Jardins Du Capitole (map)

• Having arrived in Nice on wet and windy February day, finding a restaurant open close to the hotel proved to be a bit of a challenge. We gratefully stumbled into the bright and welcoming dining room of Les Jardines Du Capitole on the Promenade des Anglais.
• We ordered a couple of onion soups, an entree each, and a bottle of local rose. Dinner for two came to €119.00.
• Food was ok, not great. Service was very attentive and friendly.
• Overall, a satisfactory meal but not worth going out of your way for.

Gigi Tavola (Gluten Free) (map)

• A marked increased in my intolerance to gluten has resulted in me having to give it up totally, quite ironic for someone who makes a lot of dough and pizzas.
• Always being on the hunt for good gluten free cooking, especially pizza, made visiting Gigi a no brainer.
• We shared an artichoke salad to start followed by a lasagna for my better half and a gluten free pizza for me. We also had a bottle of the local rose. Dinner for two came to €90.00.
• I did my own pizza training in Napoli and have completed courses in both traditional and gluten-free pizza making. Creating a decent gluten free pizza is a good challenge. The pizza at Gigi was quite acceptable with a nice crust and rise (the hardest thing when no gluten is involved). I did find, however, that the crust got a bit too soggy as I ate and became less appetizing towards the end. I personally would have part baked the crust, let it cool, before putting the tomato sauce and toppings on and then putting back into the pizza oven.
• Service was great.
• Recommended, especially if you are looking for gluten free dining.
• If anyone’s interested: Here's my gluten free pizza recipe

L’Avomantique (map)

• If you are visiting Nice, you must make a reservation and you must go to L’Avomantique.
• This is a buzzing little restaurant serving share plates. The kitchen is totally open and getting a seat at the bar is the move if it’s just a couple of you. Watching the young chefs at work is a lot of fun.
• The menu is perfectly curated with lovely things from top to bottom. We had four plates of food (roasted cabbage, spinach with stracciatella, mussels, and roast chicken), a single dessert to share, and a nice bottle of white wine. Dinner for two came to €110.00.
• Service is great and the whole vibe is welcoming and warm.
• Highly recommended. Don’t miss it.

Le Petit Lascaris (map)

• This is a charming little (and I mean little) bistro in the old town. We walked in one evening without a reservation and, somehow, managed to get squeezed in this small but welcoming space.
• The place is run by two people. A friendly and slightly flustered waiter in the front of the house and a young chef in the tiny kitchen.
• The menu is small, local, and seems to change frequently. A speciality of the house is the tagliata of beef with rocket and it is excellent. Dessert (tiramasu or chocolate mousse) comes in a large bowl from which servings are ladled!!
• Dinner for two, with an excellent bottle of local white wine, came to €96.00
• Highly recommended.

Bozzi (map)

• Bozzi is a classic French brasserie in the center of the old town close to the Palace de Justice. Popped in here for a late lunch.
• We shared an egg mayonnaise to start (of course) and the had an entrée each (get the local sausages). With a glass of wine each, lunch came to €52.00.
• Service was very friendly and efficient.
• If you come to Nice you will likely find yourself walking past Bozzi. Perfectly ok to pop in but not worth going out of your way for.

DRINKING (prices are from February 2024)

Zitto (secret)

• Zitto is a “secret” speakeasy hidden away in the old town. To keep with the vibe, I am not going to share the location except to say that you can figure it out from their Instagram account.
• You enter through a secret door and walk into a couple of dimly lit, atmospheric rooms, with little nooks and comfortable seating. Whimsical is probably the best word to describe Zitto.
• While the cocktails are ok, they are not great. Service can best be described as leisurely.
• Except to pay €14.00 to €16.00 per cocktail.
• It’s fun to find Zitto and I recommend it for that experience alone.

Babel Babel (map)

• Right on the promenade, facing the sea, Babel Babel is a great spot for a drink and a bite. The view, especially at sunset, is sensational.
• The menu of small plates is eclectic and includes an interesting selection of middle eastern dishes.
• For a couple of glasses of rose and a mezze we paid €23.00.
• Highly recommended.

Movida (map)

• Also on the promenade, facing the sea, Movida is just a few doors along from Babel Babel. This is also a great spot for a drink. The view, equally sensational.
• For a couple of glasses of white wine we paid €14.00.
• Highly recommended.

DOING (prices are from February 2024)

While we were in Nice both the Matisse Museum and the Museum of Modern Art were closed.

Marc Chagall Museum (map)

• This is a lovely museum, easily accessible by bus.
• The buildings and gardens are really very beautiful. Much of the museum, however, was closed for renovations during our visit.
• What was open was the great hall hosting 12 magnificent paintings illustrating Genesis and Exodus - described in multi-language audio which is included if you have a smartphone.
• Plan to spend about an hour. Tickets are €8.00 per person.
• Highly recommended.

Colline du Château (map)

• The park, Colline du Château, looks over Nice and offers stunning views of the harbour, old town, the promenade, and the Mediterranean beyond. The peak time to be there is at sunset.
• There is a free, and quirky, elevator (Ascenseur Du Chateau) that takes the legwork out of getting up to the viewpoint.
• Highly recommended

Promenade des Anglais, Nice

Marc Chagall Museum, Nice France

Tagliata of beef with rocket, Le Petit Lascaris, Nice

L’Avomantique, Nice

jtpj777

Thank you for your report and glad you enjoyed your trip.
Think you will find that opinion on Nice is divided on this forum: some really like it’s vibe, some don’t - probably preferring smaller, quainter French villages to busy cities like Nice.
Personally, I love both.

jtpj777

Thank you for your report and glad you enjoyed your trip.
Think you will find that opinion on Nice is divided on this forum: some really like it’s vibe, some don’t - probably preferring smaller, quainter French villages to busy cities like Nice.
Personally, I love both.

raincitygirl

Thank you for sharing this, Nice is next up on my list so this is helpful!

gooster

Thank you for your trip report. We have a place in Nice and it nice to hear about things people discover. I think there is an unusual situation going on with the Museums right now. Somehow several major museums are undergoing renovations at the same time, and one (Matisse) has loaned out its entire main collection. Normally they are open. Restaurants usually are open for Carnaval, but in January and into February some take their holidays. Since you mention GF -- I'll droop this suggestion for the others, Bio Brod at 46 Rue de France is a boulagerie/cafe with a section of GF offerings. The owner is super nice.

TDudette

Thanks for all the good info, amardhaliwal6609.