Boston to Cape Breton Nova Scotia.
Feb 21st, 2024, 04:57 PM
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Boston to Cape Breton Nova Scotia.
Hi. This is our third attempt to go to Cape Bretton next summer (late July or August). First attempt didn't work because of COVID. 2nd attempt because of fires. Both terrible for NS.
As much as I thought I would have plenty of time to plan appropriately I realize I still need more advice or a 2nd and third opinion for those that may recall our conversations,
I'm hoping for a 7 night round trip from Boston. We have ruled out the ferry especially since the one from Portland is no longer operational.
Our goal is to experience the beautiful scenery of Cape Bretton along with nice walks and hikes. We are in our 60's but active.
I thought I had it all wrapped up with our plan until I read some older reviews about Cheticamp as not an ideal place to stay.
Our thoughts are as follows:
Drive from Boston to St. John, NB and stay overnight.
Drive to Halifax. Stay overnight at the Marriott Harbourfront.
Drive to Cheticamp. Stay 2 nights so that we may enjoy the National Park especially the Skyline Trail the following day after the long drive from Halifax.
Drive to Sydney. Stay 2 nights. Hoping to visit Ingonish and Baddeck if possible.
Drive to Frederickton, NB for one night stay.
Drive home to Boston.
That is 7 nights. Questioning whether we should stay in Cheticamp but want to be close to the National Park. Does Margaree Harbour or Pleasant Bay make more sense? Should we stay one night in Ingonish and one in Sydney as opposed to 2 in Sydney?
My original goals included not staying alot of one nighters. My preference would be to stay at as few of hotels as possible but that may not work.
Maybe best to put it out this way: If you were planning this first time trip, how would you put it together with the goal of seeing and experiencing the best of Cape Bretton.
Thanks, W
As much as I thought I would have plenty of time to plan appropriately I realize I still need more advice or a 2nd and third opinion for those that may recall our conversations,
I'm hoping for a 7 night round trip from Boston. We have ruled out the ferry especially since the one from Portland is no longer operational.
Our goal is to experience the beautiful scenery of Cape Bretton along with nice walks and hikes. We are in our 60's but active.
I thought I had it all wrapped up with our plan until I read some older reviews about Cheticamp as not an ideal place to stay.
Our thoughts are as follows:
Drive from Boston to St. John, NB and stay overnight.
Drive to Halifax. Stay overnight at the Marriott Harbourfront.
Drive to Cheticamp. Stay 2 nights so that we may enjoy the National Park especially the Skyline Trail the following day after the long drive from Halifax.
Drive to Sydney. Stay 2 nights. Hoping to visit Ingonish and Baddeck if possible.
Drive to Frederickton, NB for one night stay.
Drive home to Boston.
That is 7 nights. Questioning whether we should stay in Cheticamp but want to be close to the National Park. Does Margaree Harbour or Pleasant Bay make more sense? Should we stay one night in Ingonish and one in Sydney as opposed to 2 in Sydney?
My original goals included not staying alot of one nighters. My preference would be to stay at as few of hotels as possible but that may not work.
Maybe best to put it out this way: If you were planning this first time trip, how would you put it together with the goal of seeing and experiencing the best of Cape Bretton.
Thanks, W
Feb 22nd, 2024, 06:33 AM
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Hi Warren. I spend summer months in Pleasant Bay, and here is what I suggest. For a quick visit to Cape Breton like you are planning, base yourself in Cheticamp and sightsee from there. When you arrive in CB, come up Route 19 and take some time to visit the Celtic Centre in Judique, and maybe grab a lunch at either the Glenora Distillery or the Red Show in Mabou. Once you get your lodging in Cheticamp, head over to the Doryman to eat and get some local music. Cheticamp is right on the doorstep of the national park, so you can pick up a park pass and plan for an early outing to the Skyline Trail (don't wait until later in the day, it gets busy). You might also drive the Cabot Trail up to Pleasant Bay, then to Cape North and Inverness. I'd suggest a side trip for a short hike at White Point, a lovely place that most tourists miss. From Cheticamp you can also go the other way, through the Margaree Valley to Baddeck and then St. Ann's for a visit to the Gaelic College. Adding Sydney in comes at a cost of more driving, unless you want to go to Louisbourg and tour the fortress. No matter what you decide, you will have a wonderful visit!
Feb 22nd, 2024, 08:08 AM
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Thank you!
I was originally thinking Cheticamp until I read some reviews that it was not worth visiting. I'm so happy you provided me your opinion because I agree that it appears to be a perfect base.
Are you suggesting Rt 102 from Halifax to Rt 19?
Our drive from Boston will be very long. We did it to PEI a few years ago and stopped in St. Andrews for a night. We are thinking of stopping in either St. Johns or Frederickton, NB this time around. From either it is roughly a 4 hour drive to Halifax thus the reason we would spend 1 night there. Does the one night in Halifax sound reasonable?
Halifax to Cheticamp (according to Mapquest) is over a 4 hour drive so again it makes sense to stop there for at least 2 nights based on its location and proximity ass you mentioned to the NP. I'm not sure we would be able to afford more than 2 nights there since we also want to make sure we cover the entire Cape Bretton coast line through Ingonish and Sydney.
From Sydney to Frederickton, NB is a 6.5 hour drive. We were thinking of stopping there for 1 night to break up the drive back to Boston. Frederickton or St John, NB is roughly the half way point from Sydney. So now that's 5 nights in total. That leaves us 2 nights to play with. With that said, we could consider 3 nights in Cheticamp and 1 in Sydney. Or should we stay in Ingosnish? What are your thoughts on that?
Thanks again, W
I was originally thinking Cheticamp until I read some reviews that it was not worth visiting. I'm so happy you provided me your opinion because I agree that it appears to be a perfect base.
Are you suggesting Rt 102 from Halifax to Rt 19?
Our drive from Boston will be very long. We did it to PEI a few years ago and stopped in St. Andrews for a night. We are thinking of stopping in either St. Johns or Frederickton, NB this time around. From either it is roughly a 4 hour drive to Halifax thus the reason we would spend 1 night there. Does the one night in Halifax sound reasonable?
Halifax to Cheticamp (according to Mapquest) is over a 4 hour drive so again it makes sense to stop there for at least 2 nights based on its location and proximity ass you mentioned to the NP. I'm not sure we would be able to afford more than 2 nights there since we also want to make sure we cover the entire Cape Bretton coast line through Ingonish and Sydney.
From Sydney to Frederickton, NB is a 6.5 hour drive. We were thinking of stopping there for 1 night to break up the drive back to Boston. Frederickton or St John, NB is roughly the half way point from Sydney. So now that's 5 nights in total. That leaves us 2 nights to play with. With that said, we could consider 3 nights in Cheticamp and 1 in Sydney. Or should we stay in Ingosnish? What are your thoughts on that?
Thanks again, W
Feb 22nd, 2024, 09:28 AM
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In choosing between St John and Fredericton, you may wish to consider the border crossing near Woodstock NB. That means I-95 to the end, then cross over to join the Trans-Canada, which would bring you past Fredericton. A bit longer, but US friends say it is faster. From Halifax, yes, 102 to 104 to 19. Halifax is a great city to visit, even for just one night. By the way, in my message I wrote Inverness; I meant Ingonish. Brain fart. If you spend a night there, you may wish to explore the craft shops along that part of the trail. Like Wildfire Pottery where, if you are curious about Cape Breton traditional music, you might want to chat with the gregarious owner, Paul Cranford, who has an astonishing knowledge (and is a fiddler, composer and publisher). As for Sydney, the drive is not especially interesting once you leave the Cabot Trail; but as I wrote, visiting Louisbourg would be a reason to head that way. If you stay on the Cabot Trail for a couple of nights or more, you can get in some nice hikes (Skyline is not the only one!).
Feb 22nd, 2024, 12:36 PM
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Cape Breton has a lot to offer, but in my view, the most interesting and visually appealing area is within Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The highway through the park is in good condition and there are many, many viewpoints where you can pull off and get out of the car.
And then there is the walking, and your timetable will allow you the opportunity to hike a bit. Here is a list of the trails in the park. You can click on any one of them to get more detail: https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ns/cbr...ndonnee-hiking
On the west side of the park, we are particularly fond of Salmon Pools, Le Chemin du Buttereau, and Corney Brook, none of which are particularly difficult. I echo derekmaccuish's advice about arriving at the Skyline Trail early in the day. It is the most popular trail in the park, with a very easy walk leading to a spectacular view.
Going north and eastward, we also love to walk Aspey, Mica Hill, Broad Cove Mountain, and Franey, but these are all more challenging, or at least we find them so. I am intrigued by derekmaccuish's mentioning a trail at White Point. I haven't driven into that community, but will the next time we're there.
About your overall itinerary: If you are really determined to see Halifax, your choice of hotel works well. You will be right on the waterfront, perfectly located for walking the boardwalk along the harbour, all the way to Pier 21. There are lots of restaurants and bars along the way. However, if your priority is to see Cape Breton, you might consider dropping Halifax and making your Day Two another long driving day, pushing on all the way to Chéticamp. (By the way, I've stayed there several times when hiking in the national park and think it is well placed as the western gateway to the park. Take a look at l'Abri; it is probably your best bet for an evening meal: https://labri.cafe)
Because we focus on walking, we usually spend two nights in Chéticamp and then two or three nights in Ingonish.
I'm not too sure what to say about Sydney. (I once lived there for a year and it was the longest ten years of my life.) Yes, there is Fortress Louisbourg and the mining museum, but I wouldn't describe the area as scenic. Personally, I'd look at Baddeck as an alternative. (I will now duck my head as my old Sydney acquaintances throw bricks at me.)
One other thing: as you are planning to visit Cape Breton in the summer, making your accommodation reservations soon would be a good idea.
And then there is the walking, and your timetable will allow you the opportunity to hike a bit. Here is a list of the trails in the park. You can click on any one of them to get more detail: https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ns/cbr...ndonnee-hiking
On the west side of the park, we are particularly fond of Salmon Pools, Le Chemin du Buttereau, and Corney Brook, none of which are particularly difficult. I echo derekmaccuish's advice about arriving at the Skyline Trail early in the day. It is the most popular trail in the park, with a very easy walk leading to a spectacular view.
Going north and eastward, we also love to walk Aspey, Mica Hill, Broad Cove Mountain, and Franey, but these are all more challenging, or at least we find them so. I am intrigued by derekmaccuish's mentioning a trail at White Point. I haven't driven into that community, but will the next time we're there.
About your overall itinerary: If you are really determined to see Halifax, your choice of hotel works well. You will be right on the waterfront, perfectly located for walking the boardwalk along the harbour, all the way to Pier 21. There are lots of restaurants and bars along the way. However, if your priority is to see Cape Breton, you might consider dropping Halifax and making your Day Two another long driving day, pushing on all the way to Chéticamp. (By the way, I've stayed there several times when hiking in the national park and think it is well placed as the western gateway to the park. Take a look at l'Abri; it is probably your best bet for an evening meal: https://labri.cafe)
Because we focus on walking, we usually spend two nights in Chéticamp and then two or three nights in Ingonish.
I'm not too sure what to say about Sydney. (I once lived there for a year and it was the longest ten years of my life.) Yes, there is Fortress Louisbourg and the mining museum, but I wouldn't describe the area as scenic. Personally, I'd look at Baddeck as an alternative. (I will now duck my head as my old Sydney acquaintances throw bricks at me.)
One other thing: as you are planning to visit Cape Breton in the summer, making your accommodation reservations soon would be a good idea.
Feb 22nd, 2024, 08:32 PM
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I'm not signing-on to the thought of Cheticamp being "a perfect base" (for the Cabot Trail)
The main reason I want a "base" for Cape Breton is the chance I might need to improvise because of FOG or other bad weather.
IF FOG wipes out the first option of a day for the Cabot Trail, then you're stuck way over on the edge, and can't so easily swap day plans and travel toward Sydney or the like before doing the Cabot Trail on the second day.
HOWEVER, if someone says they want to STAY in Cheticamp... I can't think of a scenario I'd rather (duplicate) there than to have this view right out the door to my room:
Even in stormy weather, it is probably entertaining to be staring out that window all day.
(Ideally with snacks and candy at the ready)
As for your specifics...
I can't completely figure out why you are pointing at Halifax... It feels like, with your window of a week, you should make certain you cover bases on Cape Breton and then only backtrack to Halifax if there is sufficient time for it.
It is (a relief) that online mapping says that the path from Portland to Moncton differs by only moments depending upon which of the two main options you take.
Also, It feels as if pausing at Fredericton on the way from NS to Boston isn't likely optimizing your time.
(still another reason to make Cape Breton your priority, and go there first, is to avoid needing to leave from Sydney on the path toward Boston.
Perhaps instead you merely drive down to Antigonish, or Pictou, and then begin your return from that nearer spot... attempting to find a way to Halifax, if you really want to.
Pictou to Bangor on either path is a little over 6 hours of driving time.)
It shouldn't take thaaaaaaaaaat much more time to get back across the border into Maine... and you'd feel much better with the border and that little bit already behind you, as you drove off the next day.
So if it were me, I would select EITHER Fredericton OR St. John for a night on the way UP... then drive another 6 hours on the second day to Cheticamp...
pause there for two nights... MAYBE even finding the very best weather moment during the 'middle' day to drive up to Skyline Trail and do your hiking then, before returning to Cheticamp for the night with that task already completed.
Then set out on the bulk of the Cabot Trail, pausing for a night somewhere if it suits you.
so lets do this in orderly fashion:
Wake up on (the day after left Boston) in St John/Fredericton
(then drive 6+ hours to Cheticamp)
Wake up on 2nd and 3rd hotel mornings in Cheticamp... set off on the Cabot Trail with Skyline Drive already visited...
Wake up on the 4th hotel morning in Ingonish, maybe ...
(you on your own need to decide how you feel about Sydney in terms of whether it is/feels important enough to visit)
OTHERWISE... that's when you drive back south, and maybe fit-in Halifax for at least one night
You COULD at this point allocate TWO nights to Halifax... giving yourself some comfort there
So that would entail
waking up on the 5th hotel morning IN HALIFAX...
AND waking up on the 6th hotel morning IN HALIFAX
(it's a solid 6.5 hour drive from Halifax to Bangor, but you'd feel better on that final hotel morning having already crossed the border and being a bit nearer to home)
(the improvisation in this could be LEAVING HALIFAX in... the evening (rather than that 2nd night IN Halifax)... and scooting up the road a bit nearer to home... perhaps even fitting in your choice of St. John or Fredericton <again> (NOT for the final hotel night, but for the 2nd-last hotel night).
At any rate, my hotel-night pattern leaves some wiggle room for the end, when you can decide on the fly what you'd like to do.
Surely you will get every detail ironed out and posted here... and mayb somebody will come up with an even more appealing idea.
Hope it goes well... er, goes at all (to start with)... and then goes well.
The main reason I want a "base" for Cape Breton is the chance I might need to improvise because of FOG or other bad weather.
IF FOG wipes out the first option of a day for the Cabot Trail, then you're stuck way over on the edge, and can't so easily swap day plans and travel toward Sydney or the like before doing the Cabot Trail on the second day.
HOWEVER, if someone says they want to STAY in Cheticamp... I can't think of a scenario I'd rather (duplicate) there than to have this view right out the door to my room:
Even in stormy weather, it is probably entertaining to be staring out that window all day.
(Ideally with snacks and candy at the ready)
As for your specifics...
I can't completely figure out why you are pointing at Halifax... It feels like, with your window of a week, you should make certain you cover bases on Cape Breton and then only backtrack to Halifax if there is sufficient time for it.
It is (a relief) that online mapping says that the path from Portland to Moncton differs by only moments depending upon which of the two main options you take.
Also, It feels as if pausing at Fredericton on the way from NS to Boston isn't likely optimizing your time.
(still another reason to make Cape Breton your priority, and go there first, is to avoid needing to leave from Sydney on the path toward Boston.
Perhaps instead you merely drive down to Antigonish, or Pictou, and then begin your return from that nearer spot... attempting to find a way to Halifax, if you really want to.
Pictou to Bangor on either path is a little over 6 hours of driving time.)
It shouldn't take thaaaaaaaaaat much more time to get back across the border into Maine... and you'd feel much better with the border and that little bit already behind you, as you drove off the next day.
So if it were me, I would select EITHER Fredericton OR St. John for a night on the way UP... then drive another 6 hours on the second day to Cheticamp...
pause there for two nights... MAYBE even finding the very best weather moment during the 'middle' day to drive up to Skyline Trail and do your hiking then, before returning to Cheticamp for the night with that task already completed.
Then set out on the bulk of the Cabot Trail, pausing for a night somewhere if it suits you.
so lets do this in orderly fashion:
Wake up on (the day after left Boston) in St John/Fredericton
(then drive 6+ hours to Cheticamp)
Wake up on 2nd and 3rd hotel mornings in Cheticamp... set off on the Cabot Trail with Skyline Drive already visited...
Wake up on the 4th hotel morning in Ingonish, maybe ...
(you on your own need to decide how you feel about Sydney in terms of whether it is/feels important enough to visit)
OTHERWISE... that's when you drive back south, and maybe fit-in Halifax for at least one night
You COULD at this point allocate TWO nights to Halifax... giving yourself some comfort there
So that would entail
waking up on the 5th hotel morning IN HALIFAX...
AND waking up on the 6th hotel morning IN HALIFAX
(it's a solid 6.5 hour drive from Halifax to Bangor, but you'd feel better on that final hotel morning having already crossed the border and being a bit nearer to home)
(the improvisation in this could be LEAVING HALIFAX in... the evening (rather than that 2nd night IN Halifax)... and scooting up the road a bit nearer to home... perhaps even fitting in your choice of St. John or Fredericton <again> (NOT for the final hotel night, but for the 2nd-last hotel night).
At any rate, my hotel-night pattern leaves some wiggle room for the end, when you can decide on the fly what you'd like to do.
Surely you will get every detail ironed out and posted here... and mayb somebody will come up with an even more appealing idea.
Hope it goes well... er, goes at all (to start with)... and then goes well.
Feb 23rd, 2024, 07:50 AM
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This is why I love Fodor's forums so much. All of your information and advice is outstanding. I love the to hear the different opinions. And the links and picture provided is an incredible assistance.
I now have some revised thoughts of which I will attempt to make some reservations today. We will plan on the first week of
August 2024 since August appears to be the best time to go for both warmer weather and less (not none) mosquitos. Unless any advise a better time to go. I realize the crowds will be larger then but we are okay with that.
So, I'm thinking the following now:
Day 1: Boston to St John or Frederickton 1 nIght. Roughly a 6 hour drive. Not sure where to stay yet.
Day 2: St J or F to Cheticamp. ( I loved that idea). 2 nights. Roughly a 6 hour drive. Not sure where to stay yet. L'abri Cafe is a must for us!!
Day 4: Drive to ingonish. 2 nights. Roughly a 1.5 hour drive, maybe even splurge and stay at the Keltic Lodge unless the cost is too unbearable! Maybe drive to Baddeck during our stay in Ingonish if that makes sense.
Day 6: Drive to Halifax. 1 night. I do want to visit Halifax. Roughly a 5 hour drive. Stay as mentioned at the Marriott Harbourfront.
Day 7: Well this is still up in the air. Possibly Bar Harbor Maine but it is a long drive, i.e., 7+ hours. We'll figure this one out.
That's a total of 7 nights.
Originally I was considering Sydney because I thought we would be driving along the coast but then as I looked at the map more closely I now understand why everybody wasn't overly thrilled with the suggestion of Sydney (not taking anything away from what Sydney does offer). Our goal is indeed to drive along the beautiful coastline and sample amazing food, take amazing walks/hikes, and appreciate the local atmosphere. Now I understand and appreciate all of your recommendations. We love going to local restaurants and enjoying the food, beer, and music if provided,.
So, any further comments would be greatly appreciated in case I have overlooked or not given enough thought to this,
Thanks, again, W
I now have some revised thoughts of which I will attempt to make some reservations today. We will plan on the first week of
August 2024 since August appears to be the best time to go for both warmer weather and less (not none) mosquitos. Unless any advise a better time to go. I realize the crowds will be larger then but we are okay with that.
So, I'm thinking the following now:
Day 1: Boston to St John or Frederickton 1 nIght. Roughly a 6 hour drive. Not sure where to stay yet.
Day 2: St J or F to Cheticamp. ( I loved that idea). 2 nights. Roughly a 6 hour drive. Not sure where to stay yet. L'abri Cafe is a must for us!!
Day 4: Drive to ingonish. 2 nights. Roughly a 1.5 hour drive, maybe even splurge and stay at the Keltic Lodge unless the cost is too unbearable! Maybe drive to Baddeck during our stay in Ingonish if that makes sense.
Day 6: Drive to Halifax. 1 night. I do want to visit Halifax. Roughly a 5 hour drive. Stay as mentioned at the Marriott Harbourfront.
Day 7: Well this is still up in the air. Possibly Bar Harbor Maine but it is a long drive, i.e., 7+ hours. We'll figure this one out.
That's a total of 7 nights.
Originally I was considering Sydney because I thought we would be driving along the coast but then as I looked at the map more closely I now understand why everybody wasn't overly thrilled with the suggestion of Sydney (not taking anything away from what Sydney does offer). Our goal is indeed to drive along the beautiful coastline and sample amazing food, take amazing walks/hikes, and appreciate the local atmosphere. Now I understand and appreciate all of your recommendations. We love going to local restaurants and enjoying the food, beer, and music if provided,.
So, any further comments would be greatly appreciated in case I have overlooked or not given enough thought to this,
Thanks, again, W
Feb 23rd, 2024, 11:34 AM
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A couple of comments: yes, definitely mosquitoes, haha. There are also ticks in Cape Breton, but coming from New England, I suspect you know all about pant legs in your socks while hiking and doing tick checks afterwards. There are also coyotes, with a few reports of aggressive behaviour towards humans. You'll see signs like this on the trailheads, but we have walked a lot of the trails and have encountered nothing:
In Chéticamp, we have stayed at a place that is called the Outback Inn. It is not in the centre of town, so you would have a short drive to restaurants. One thing to point out is that it has recently changed hands, so I can no longer vouch for the warm hospitality and immaculate housekeeping that we experienced. There are other options in town, I just don't know anything about them.
In Ingonish, we have always stayed at the Seaside Coastal Retreat. They have ten (I think) small cottages poised above the water, each with a very modest kitchenette. I know some of them have hot tubs, if that appeals. They are pricey and require a two-night stay, if I recollect correctly, but are cosy and quiet. About Celtic Lodge: I've had no experience with it, having noted some discouraging reviews on TripAdvisor over the years, but perhaps they have turned over a new leaf.
Baddeck as a side trip while staying in Ingonish: I find the road south from Ingonish a tedious drive, and it will be worse in August with all of the RVs on the road. It's narrow, often twisty, and goes over Cape Smokey, which can be slow. An alternative is to spend one night in Ingonish and one night in Baddeck, as you will be going that direction to get to Halifax. However, you mentioned that you would rather not include too many one-night stays (a sentiment that I share when travelling like that), so you might also consider stopping off in Baddeck on the day you drive to Halifax.
Local beer: I like Big Spruce Brewing, which is located in Nyanza, 14 km west of Baddeck. You'll see their beers in a lot of places in Nova Scotia, or you could drop by the brewery if you are driving by after 11:00 am. (Liquor laws!) Kitchen Party Pale Ale is my favourite. https://bigspruce.ca
In Halifax: as I mentioned yesterday, there are a lot of restaurants along the waterfront. Consider, though, the Highwayman, a short walk up to Barrington Street, and if you are prepared to take a taxi or an Uber, I'd also recommend Bar Kismet, on Agricola Street. https://www.highwaymanhfx.com and https://barkismet.com
Local beer in Halifax: Garrison Brewery makes great products; you'll find them at the south end of the waterfront boardwalk. https://www.garrisonbrewing.com/brewery/ But there are many, many other local brewers as well.
I would definitely suggest reservations for restaurants in Halifax. There will be a lot of people downtown on a warm summer evening.
In Chéticamp, we have stayed at a place that is called the Outback Inn. It is not in the centre of town, so you would have a short drive to restaurants. One thing to point out is that it has recently changed hands, so I can no longer vouch for the warm hospitality and immaculate housekeeping that we experienced. There are other options in town, I just don't know anything about them.
In Ingonish, we have always stayed at the Seaside Coastal Retreat. They have ten (I think) small cottages poised above the water, each with a very modest kitchenette. I know some of them have hot tubs, if that appeals. They are pricey and require a two-night stay, if I recollect correctly, but are cosy and quiet. About Celtic Lodge: I've had no experience with it, having noted some discouraging reviews on TripAdvisor over the years, but perhaps they have turned over a new leaf.
Baddeck as a side trip while staying in Ingonish: I find the road south from Ingonish a tedious drive, and it will be worse in August with all of the RVs on the road. It's narrow, often twisty, and goes over Cape Smokey, which can be slow. An alternative is to spend one night in Ingonish and one night in Baddeck, as you will be going that direction to get to Halifax. However, you mentioned that you would rather not include too many one-night stays (a sentiment that I share when travelling like that), so you might also consider stopping off in Baddeck on the day you drive to Halifax.
Local beer: I like Big Spruce Brewing, which is located in Nyanza, 14 km west of Baddeck. You'll see their beers in a lot of places in Nova Scotia, or you could drop by the brewery if you are driving by after 11:00 am. (Liquor laws!) Kitchen Party Pale Ale is my favourite. https://bigspruce.ca
In Halifax: as I mentioned yesterday, there are a lot of restaurants along the waterfront. Consider, though, the Highwayman, a short walk up to Barrington Street, and if you are prepared to take a taxi or an Uber, I'd also recommend Bar Kismet, on Agricola Street. https://www.highwaymanhfx.com and https://barkismet.com
Local beer in Halifax: Garrison Brewery makes great products; you'll find them at the south end of the waterfront boardwalk. https://www.garrisonbrewing.com/brewery/ But there are many, many other local brewers as well.
I would definitely suggest reservations for restaurants in Halifax. There will be a lot of people downtown on a warm summer evening.
Feb 23rd, 2024, 04:31 PM
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Wow. More great advice. Thank you!
Ok, I struck out today with reservations.
It became mind boggling when I was trying to find a place to stay in Cheticamp. Then of course the Keltic Lodge was only available 1 of the 2 nights that worked into our schedule. Then I started doubting whether the location was ideal for us since we like to be within walking distance of the downtown and restaurants. Then I started questioning that since Ingonish is rather close to Cheticamp does it make sense to stay there at all let alone even 1 night. Maybe I should just stay in Baddeck for the 1 or 2 nights instead of Ingonish!
Well, you see where this is going!! I will recollect all my thoughts and revisit. I don't think I have to make drastic changes but possibly modify the plans a bit.
Agree based on what is left for vacancy I best make the reservations asap.
Bear with me all, this is typical of my decision process but I make it work with your help each and every time. Right now I'm reviewing all your links provided in the above responses.
Thanks again, W
Ok, I struck out today with reservations.
It became mind boggling when I was trying to find a place to stay in Cheticamp. Then of course the Keltic Lodge was only available 1 of the 2 nights that worked into our schedule. Then I started doubting whether the location was ideal for us since we like to be within walking distance of the downtown and restaurants. Then I started questioning that since Ingonish is rather close to Cheticamp does it make sense to stay there at all let alone even 1 night. Maybe I should just stay in Baddeck for the 1 or 2 nights instead of Ingonish!
Well, you see where this is going!! I will recollect all my thoughts and revisit. I don't think I have to make drastic changes but possibly modify the plans a bit.
Agree based on what is left for vacancy I best make the reservations asap.
Bear with me all, this is typical of my decision process but I make it work with your help each and every time. Right now I'm reviewing all your links provided in the above responses.
Thanks again, W
Feb 27th, 2024, 08:39 AM
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The photo from up above was taken from "Auberge Baywind Suites" near Cheticamp and the room with that view was down low, behind the fence-like thing in the photo on this website:
Auberge Baywind Suites | Destination Cape Breton (cbisland.com)
I never contemplate Baddeck as a visiting spot when based somewhere else...
There are plenty of cutesy shops with souvenirs... and restaurants... making it better as a spot to pause on a long drive, than a spot to leap to include for reasons other than the very useful strategic location.
And wow, I spent a night at the Marriott Harbourfront (using "points" offered up by family I was with). We stayed in the posh upper floors, complete with free cookies and snacks, and a newspaper in the morning.
(* the paper having been remarkably captivating because the photo on the front page on that ONE day was from a body of water 2 miles from where I'm typing, a continent away)
There is a casino a short walk away, that could be of some late night interest depending upon other logistics.
Central Halifax is largely on a hillside so walking around takes some effort and dedication.
Last time I was in NS, I spent a decent amount of time in the Sydney area. The best food discovery was the nachos from Don Cherry's (LOL). I agree that you don't have to SEE Sydney to still draw the very best from NS.
You will do just fine if piecing together your nights based on whatever is left, reservation-wise...
Because there really are no wrong answers... just some less-efficient time/travel-wise answers.
I also understand the value of merely (setting foot in) Halifax. My first-ever (round-trip drive, from Boston) was largely to spend a cherished 24 hours in Halifax. (had to pause on the highway, just to take photos of the "Entering Nova Scotia" sign on the way in).
Just remind yourself that in large part because NS isn't on the way to anywhere else, you can't AS easily zoom across the landscape from point A to point B... (because it isn't in as much demand).
Allow plenty of TIME no matter your path, and just be happy that there is minimal traffic and nothing really demanding that you hurry.
Hope your plans get ironed out.
Auberge Baywind Suites | Destination Cape Breton (cbisland.com)
I never contemplate Baddeck as a visiting spot when based somewhere else...
There are plenty of cutesy shops with souvenirs... and restaurants... making it better as a spot to pause on a long drive, than a spot to leap to include for reasons other than the very useful strategic location.
And wow, I spent a night at the Marriott Harbourfront (using "points" offered up by family I was with). We stayed in the posh upper floors, complete with free cookies and snacks, and a newspaper in the morning.
(* the paper having been remarkably captivating because the photo on the front page on that ONE day was from a body of water 2 miles from where I'm typing, a continent away)
There is a casino a short walk away, that could be of some late night interest depending upon other logistics.
Central Halifax is largely on a hillside so walking around takes some effort and dedication.
Last time I was in NS, I spent a decent amount of time in the Sydney area. The best food discovery was the nachos from Don Cherry's (LOL). I agree that you don't have to SEE Sydney to still draw the very best from NS.
You will do just fine if piecing together your nights based on whatever is left, reservation-wise...
Because there really are no wrong answers... just some less-efficient time/travel-wise answers.
I also understand the value of merely (setting foot in) Halifax. My first-ever (round-trip drive, from Boston) was largely to spend a cherished 24 hours in Halifax. (had to pause on the highway, just to take photos of the "Entering Nova Scotia" sign on the way in).
Just remind yourself that in large part because NS isn't on the way to anywhere else, you can't AS easily zoom across the landscape from point A to point B... (because it isn't in as much demand).
Allow plenty of TIME no matter your path, and just be happy that there is minimal traffic and nothing really demanding that you hurry.
Hope your plans get ironed out.
Mar 4th, 2024, 05:35 AM
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Thanks!
We have plans A and B. A being flying in/out of Halifax and B driving. I have have hotel reservations for both plans.
I realize it is alot of driving. We drove to PEI several years ago. However, the cost of flying and the car rental would be approx. an overall additional cost of $2500 as compared to driving even considering the hotel stay that would be required if driving.
Based on opinions and my personal review, Cheticamp and Baddeck are perfect bases for us.
Thanks again and will keep you all posted with final changes and naturally my review when the trip is complete.
W
Tha
We have plans A and B. A being flying in/out of Halifax and B driving. I have have hotel reservations for both plans.
I realize it is alot of driving. We drove to PEI several years ago. However, the cost of flying and the car rental would be approx. an overall additional cost of $2500 as compared to driving even considering the hotel stay that would be required if driving.
Based on opinions and my personal review, Cheticamp and Baddeck are perfect bases for us.
Thanks again and will keep you all posted with final changes and naturally my review when the trip is complete.
W
Tha
Mar 8th, 2024, 11:53 PM
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I say Driving up and around IS for most, the right move... because Hopewell Cape is perhaps the single best spot to get the full effect of the power of the Fundy Tides... though it is kinda awkward and outta the way-ish, from Halifax.
But IF you're driving up and back, you can take the lower path and go through Fundy NP on the way in... and then go the faster path on the way back.
I can't even will myself to consider the Ferry to Yarmouth, because upon arrival there you're still SO FAR from the main spots, that you still have to drive forever to get there. Maybe if I lived in the hustle and bustle of Portland, and wanted to get away for 3 or 4 days, I might consent to take the ferry to Yarmouth, but only because I have covered lots of the other paths in NS.
Another factor to consider, is that with NS not being on the way to anywhere, you sense that you're only likely to get there ONCE... so to be caused to at least have a thorough LOOK AROUND, IF only from the car... gives you the best sense OF the scenic area.
and DO figure out how to have a few minutes to devote to the Fundy Tides whenever you can squeeze something in... it's pretty ominous to see the sign that says: "Warning: You MUST be off of this beach by ___(time)___ to avoid being trapped by the incoming tide".
Happy travels!
But IF you're driving up and back, you can take the lower path and go through Fundy NP on the way in... and then go the faster path on the way back.
I can't even will myself to consider the Ferry to Yarmouth, because upon arrival there you're still SO FAR from the main spots, that you still have to drive forever to get there. Maybe if I lived in the hustle and bustle of Portland, and wanted to get away for 3 or 4 days, I might consent to take the ferry to Yarmouth, but only because I have covered lots of the other paths in NS.
Another factor to consider, is that with NS not being on the way to anywhere, you sense that you're only likely to get there ONCE... so to be caused to at least have a thorough LOOK AROUND, IF only from the car... gives you the best sense OF the scenic area.
and DO figure out how to have a few minutes to devote to the Fundy Tides whenever you can squeeze something in... it's pretty ominous to see the sign that says: "Warning: You MUST be off of this beach by ___(time)___ to avoid being trapped by the incoming tide".
Happy travels!
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wasleys
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