Nywoman an older single traveler explores Taiwan and Japan
Oct 16th, 2017, 01:15 AM
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Nywoman an older single traveler explores Taiwan and Japan
Here we go again It's hard to keep a Fodorite at home. My first report from Taipei.
September 12th
Well I am off, flight is one hour late in departing, but I am happy with my Krug Champagne that the flight attendant refers to as sparkling wine. The meal service is quite spectacular with 7 courses offered, most of it very good. During the first course a lovely crab salad and Ahi tuna I managed to break a tooth on a soft piece of bread. It is quite visible when I smile, unfortunately I will be landing Friday early evening , don’t know if there are dentists who speak English that work on Saturday. One of the flight attendants gave me the name of her dentist. I was able to get an appointment at 3.30 on Saturday
October 14th
My first day in Taipan has been very wet and rainy, did I say rainy, maybe an intermittent deluge of rain is a better way of describing the day. I started out by walking to Chiang Kai-Sheks Memorial which is huge. It was built in the 1980’s but looks much older. It is a perfect example of classical Chinese architecture and quite interesting to see.
An art gallery exhibiting beautiful contemporary water colours, was unable to get a catalogue but each piece instead of a name had it’s measurements. Then it was on to the galleries that depicted CKS’s life including the two Cadillacs and sedans that he was carried in. Many many photos with leaders of the world and other memorabilia. I found it totally fascinating.
There is a concert hall and a theatre on the grounds, the sheltered entrances were the scenes of teenagers practicing complicated dance routines to hip-hop music, or was it rap? Scores sitting down painting. Very impressive, they were all working so hard and joyfully together.
I was going to go to the National Museum of Taiwan History and ended up at the Camphor Museum.
Very interesting and beautifully done. The Museum had at one point been a Camphor manufacturing plant that also produced Opium. Outside in the garden was a Farmers market e.g. is there were a few farmers and several other South East Asian exhibitors, mainly from Malaysia as well as a group of women from Indonesia that live in Taiwan. The Farmers market is a new venture that is being promoted and tried out in several locations. Because of the rain it was very poorly attended which was a shame for the exhibitors that had traveled so far. This is putting my values on what appeared to be a very jolly group. The women who came from a small village Cheng Long, were originally from Indonesia and wore clothes from that region they were a very cheerful group who made a drink/fruit salad with produce gotten from the farmers.
There were noodles sold, coffee which had a mushroom mixed in the neutralize the acidity, Shrimp caught in the wetlands, cookies by Julie’s. Since there were few customers the vendors kept on sharing with each other and the rain kept on pelting down. I had to leave for the dentist and took a taxi the average rate seems to be around $3.50 for a 15 minute ride. 3 hours later and $120 I have the best looking temporary crown.
By now jet lag has set in and I am starving, too tired to go to any night market I stop by a busy place that serves a buffet meal for $2.30. It was quite good and very filling. Taxi to the hotel and crashed into bed at 8 pm.
September 12th
Well I am off, flight is one hour late in departing, but I am happy with my Krug Champagne that the flight attendant refers to as sparkling wine. The meal service is quite spectacular with 7 courses offered, most of it very good. During the first course a lovely crab salad and Ahi tuna I managed to break a tooth on a soft piece of bread. It is quite visible when I smile, unfortunately I will be landing Friday early evening , don’t know if there are dentists who speak English that work on Saturday. One of the flight attendants gave me the name of her dentist. I was able to get an appointment at 3.30 on Saturday
October 14th
My first day in Taipan has been very wet and rainy, did I say rainy, maybe an intermittent deluge of rain is a better way of describing the day. I started out by walking to Chiang Kai-Sheks Memorial which is huge. It was built in the 1980’s but looks much older. It is a perfect example of classical Chinese architecture and quite interesting to see.
An art gallery exhibiting beautiful contemporary water colours, was unable to get a catalogue but each piece instead of a name had it’s measurements. Then it was on to the galleries that depicted CKS’s life including the two Cadillacs and sedans that he was carried in. Many many photos with leaders of the world and other memorabilia. I found it totally fascinating.
There is a concert hall and a theatre on the grounds, the sheltered entrances were the scenes of teenagers practicing complicated dance routines to hip-hop music, or was it rap? Scores sitting down painting. Very impressive, they were all working so hard and joyfully together.
I was going to go to the National Museum of Taiwan History and ended up at the Camphor Museum.
Very interesting and beautifully done. The Museum had at one point been a Camphor manufacturing plant that also produced Opium. Outside in the garden was a Farmers market e.g. is there were a few farmers and several other South East Asian exhibitors, mainly from Malaysia as well as a group of women from Indonesia that live in Taiwan. The Farmers market is a new venture that is being promoted and tried out in several locations. Because of the rain it was very poorly attended which was a shame for the exhibitors that had traveled so far. This is putting my values on what appeared to be a very jolly group. The women who came from a small village Cheng Long, were originally from Indonesia and wore clothes from that region they were a very cheerful group who made a drink/fruit salad with produce gotten from the farmers.
There were noodles sold, coffee which had a mushroom mixed in the neutralize the acidity, Shrimp caught in the wetlands, cookies by Julie’s. Since there were few customers the vendors kept on sharing with each other and the rain kept on pelting down. I had to leave for the dentist and took a taxi the average rate seems to be around $3.50 for a 15 minute ride. 3 hours later and $120 I have the best looking temporary crown.
By now jet lag has set in and I am starving, too tired to go to any night market I stop by a busy place that serves a buffet meal for $2.30. It was quite good and very filling. Taxi to the hotel and crashed into bed at 8 pm.
Oct 16th, 2017, 01:19 AM
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October 15, 2017 ,
As some of you know I had spinal surgery 2 months ago, and had a huge debate with my self if I should take this trip or not. In the end I decided that I rather be in pain in Asia than in NYC. As it happens my back likes Asia and has been behaving for the most part very well.
Some impressions Taipei is clean, not a scrap of paper anywhere, no cigarette butts nada. It is quite amazing even the subways are squeaky clean. The chopsticks are either all stainless steel or stainless tipped. There is food everywhere small hole in the wall places to large chains. I have never seen so many eateries anywhere.
Sunday morning in Taipei. More rain, not the gentle misty kind, but pelting. Have my rain jacket and trusted umbrella so off I go. Someone had recommended the Sunday flower and jade markets which I decided to explore. It looked very close on the map, in reality it was far. The flower market is ½ mile long and so is the jade market. I managed to walk both twice, once entering and also exiting.
The flower market is a wonderful sight with an incredible variety of cut flowers, plants, trees, bonsai, garden implements, vases, water plants and of course orchids. For years I have carried a collapsible plastic vase with the intention of brightening up my hotel room. Until now it never happened, never seemed to find a florist except the day before I was leaving or something like that. Today I lucked out and my room is much cheerier for my lovely ink and white blooms.
The jade market was so overwhelming with of course jade, but also pearls and semiprecious stones as well as coral and crystals. Seeing all the pearls had me transported back to mainland China, except I didn’t see anyone stringing them. I must have missed something because there were customers who bought the unset stones and strands of beads. Several of the merchants sat and played a game with tiles, others gossiped, and nobody tried to sell me anything.
By now it was time for lunch and I took the Metro called MRT for 1 stop with a total cost of 25cents.
When I had gone to the Taiwanese tourist office in New York I had received an Easy Card which already had close to $10 on it. Lunch was eaten at the famous Dintaifung I had two different kinds of soup dumplings that were exquisite, and a regular dumpling that wasn’t cost approx. $15
Went back to the hotel for a nap and then it was time for a night market experience. This particular market was only food, it reminded me of a street fair, lots of duplication, nothing particularly tempting I did have an oyster that was lightly steamed. Scallions wrapped in ?? and a deep fried cake with egg and shrimp which was very tasty. Clocked just under 3 miles today and felt it was time to call it a day.
As some of you know I had spinal surgery 2 months ago, and had a huge debate with my self if I should take this trip or not. In the end I decided that I rather be in pain in Asia than in NYC. As it happens my back likes Asia and has been behaving for the most part very well.
Some impressions Taipei is clean, not a scrap of paper anywhere, no cigarette butts nada. It is quite amazing even the subways are squeaky clean. The chopsticks are either all stainless steel or stainless tipped. There is food everywhere small hole in the wall places to large chains. I have never seen so many eateries anywhere.
Sunday morning in Taipei. More rain, not the gentle misty kind, but pelting. Have my rain jacket and trusted umbrella so off I go. Someone had recommended the Sunday flower and jade markets which I decided to explore. It looked very close on the map, in reality it was far. The flower market is ½ mile long and so is the jade market. I managed to walk both twice, once entering and also exiting.
The flower market is a wonderful sight with an incredible variety of cut flowers, plants, trees, bonsai, garden implements, vases, water plants and of course orchids. For years I have carried a collapsible plastic vase with the intention of brightening up my hotel room. Until now it never happened, never seemed to find a florist except the day before I was leaving or something like that. Today I lucked out and my room is much cheerier for my lovely ink and white blooms.
The jade market was so overwhelming with of course jade, but also pearls and semiprecious stones as well as coral and crystals. Seeing all the pearls had me transported back to mainland China, except I didn’t see anyone stringing them. I must have missed something because there were customers who bought the unset stones and strands of beads. Several of the merchants sat and played a game with tiles, others gossiped, and nobody tried to sell me anything.
By now it was time for lunch and I took the Metro called MRT for 1 stop with a total cost of 25cents.
When I had gone to the Taiwanese tourist office in New York I had received an Easy Card which already had close to $10 on it. Lunch was eaten at the famous Dintaifung I had two different kinds of soup dumplings that were exquisite, and a regular dumpling that wasn’t cost approx. $15
Went back to the hotel for a nap and then it was time for a night market experience. This particular market was only food, it reminded me of a street fair, lots of duplication, nothing particularly tempting I did have an oyster that was lightly steamed. Scallions wrapped in ?? and a deep fried cake with egg and shrimp which was very tasty. Clocked just under 3 miles today and felt it was time to call it a day.
Oct 16th, 2017, 02:03 AM
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Sorry to hear of your tooth but it sounds like you are having a good time. Taipei became one of our favourite Asian cities when we visited for the first time in July. Will be following along with great interest.
Oct 16th, 2017, 05:39 AM
#4
Sorry about the weather and the tooth, but good news about the spine. Glad you are enjoying Taipei.
BTW, which airline? And champagne only comes from the Champagne area in France, aside from a loophole for some California wines: https://vinepair.com/wine-blog/looph...ampagne-legal/ See also: "Real Food, Fake Food".
BTW, which airline? And champagne only comes from the Champagne area in France, aside from a loophole for some California wines: https://vinepair.com/wine-blog/looph...ampagne-legal/ See also: "Real Food, Fake Food".
Oct 16th, 2017, 08:23 AM
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I was wondering about the airline too. was it EVA air?
We had dumplings at a DTF place in Singapore so yes its quite nice.
I am glad you got your tooth treated so easily and it was very nice of that FA to refer her dentist to you.
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We had dumplings at a DTF place in Singapore so yes its quite nice.
I am glad you got your tooth treated so easily and it was very nice of that FA to refer her dentist to you.
Following
Oct 16th, 2017, 02:48 PM
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October 16, 2017
The rain has stopped and the sun is shining a perfect excuse to get away from central Taipei. I had read about Tamsui, part of new Taipei. A riverside retreat on weekends when 1000’s descends on it. It is Monday the crowds have to be less, and they were. The guide book and the maps talk of old street which I am eagerly looking for. One reason is that so far I have seen very little old in terms of streets or buildings. To be honest Taipei is not an attractive city, or very cohesive in its architecture. I was also ready for an adventure
45 minutes later I arrive in what looks like an attractive riverside town, find the old street with the help of some students. It is really not old just a street full of eateries and shops. Reminds me of a street fair again. As I get closer to the wharf, I see the Turkish ice cream man that was mentioned in the guidebook.
He is very amusing playing with the cone, now you see it, now you don’t. He has filled it with ice cream but it disappears. Very amusing game, unfortunately the product is very gummy, which is probably why it doesn’t drop as he continues with his antics.
There are several historic things to see, apart from the seaside town like atmosphere, but it was too hot for me to walk around.
Have eaten the “a gay” dried Tofu stuffed with cellophane vermicelli in a light chili sauce. A specialty of the area. I walk along the board walk with it’s games and more food and decide to take the ferry to Bali.
It is very hot 90 degrees and humid, a boat ride should be nice, also there is the Shihsanhang Museum of Archaeology that sounds interesting in Bali.
When I arrive nobody knows about the museum. I have to show it on a map.
Once everyone knows what I am talking about they spring into action, First a map is drawn of the bus stop, then a young man walks me to the stop and points out which bus I should take. The museum is far from the wharf and the bus never arrives waited 30 minutes so took a taxi.
It is a beautifully designed building, perfect museum for small children and school classes. Lots of interactive stuff, It was empty except a young couple, and a mother with two small children who was putting a plastic skeleton together, the other child had a moth without teeth that she had to match.
There was also an older group of amateur photographers busy taking pictures of stairs and stairwells.
Still no bus for the return trip so I got another taxi, except he didn’t have a clue where to go, despite my map. He picks up a phone and calls a buddy who speaks 3 words of English whom I should speak to. Eventually we get it figured out he was very proud of having thought to call his friend and I agreed.
It is interesting how very few people speak English, except the odd word, yet they all say bye when leaving. Of course my Chinese is even poorer.
Back to the hotel and in bed by 8 pm Did another 3 miles today without too much pain.
The rain has stopped and the sun is shining a perfect excuse to get away from central Taipei. I had read about Tamsui, part of new Taipei. A riverside retreat on weekends when 1000’s descends on it. It is Monday the crowds have to be less, and they were. The guide book and the maps talk of old street which I am eagerly looking for. One reason is that so far I have seen very little old in terms of streets or buildings. To be honest Taipei is not an attractive city, or very cohesive in its architecture. I was also ready for an adventure
45 minutes later I arrive in what looks like an attractive riverside town, find the old street with the help of some students. It is really not old just a street full of eateries and shops. Reminds me of a street fair again. As I get closer to the wharf, I see the Turkish ice cream man that was mentioned in the guidebook.
He is very amusing playing with the cone, now you see it, now you don’t. He has filled it with ice cream but it disappears. Very amusing game, unfortunately the product is very gummy, which is probably why it doesn’t drop as he continues with his antics.
There are several historic things to see, apart from the seaside town like atmosphere, but it was too hot for me to walk around.
Have eaten the “a gay” dried Tofu stuffed with cellophane vermicelli in a light chili sauce. A specialty of the area. I walk along the board walk with it’s games and more food and decide to take the ferry to Bali.
It is very hot 90 degrees and humid, a boat ride should be nice, also there is the Shihsanhang Museum of Archaeology that sounds interesting in Bali.
When I arrive nobody knows about the museum. I have to show it on a map.
Once everyone knows what I am talking about they spring into action, First a map is drawn of the bus stop, then a young man walks me to the stop and points out which bus I should take. The museum is far from the wharf and the bus never arrives waited 30 minutes so took a taxi.
It is a beautifully designed building, perfect museum for small children and school classes. Lots of interactive stuff, It was empty except a young couple, and a mother with two small children who was putting a plastic skeleton together, the other child had a moth without teeth that she had to match.
There was also an older group of amateur photographers busy taking pictures of stairs and stairwells.
Still no bus for the return trip so I got another taxi, except he didn’t have a clue where to go, despite my map. He picks up a phone and calls a buddy who speaks 3 words of English whom I should speak to. Eventually we get it figured out he was very proud of having thought to call his friend and I agreed.
It is interesting how very few people speak English, except the odd word, yet they all say bye when leaving. Of course my Chinese is even poorer.
Back to the hotel and in bed by 8 pm Did another 3 miles today without too much pain.
Oct 18th, 2017, 02:56 AM
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Nywoman on Oct 18, 17 at 6:54am
Oct. 17
Today was totally a day of unexpected occurrences, actually most days are. Decided to have breakfast out, walked by a place that was displaying their breakfast items on a table outside, that’s how I ended up eating Turnip cakes and dried Tofu with Brown Rice for breakfast. It was really delicious, as I continued my walk I passed an herbalist, the scents were too tantalizing so I stepped in. He was weighing and making packages of herbs, spices and dried fruits. I recognized bay leaves and I think it was dried passion fruits crushed up. unfortunately there was a language barrier so I was unable to find out what today’s recipe was for.
Finally it was time to go to the National Palace Museum as it was another rainy day. The Museum required a subway and bus ride since it’s located quite a distance from my hotel. My hotel is not really a hotel it is a hostel with private rooms. My room is small, but it has a wall length mirror to make it appear larger. There is a shower, toilet and sink plus the most comfortable double bed with a delicious comforter. It is a relatively short walk to the nearest MRT (subway) and no end of choices for eating on the way.
The National Palace Museum was free because today was a cultural day. I think every tour group in town had decided it was a very good day to visit. I managed to see some of the most precious paintings, they only exhibit 20 at a time. Got my picture taken in regional costumes, an interactive exhibit of which I have seen several versions. You stand in front of and then you become part of the scene, very amusing for children and some adults. After a while I couldn’t take the noise and crowds and left.
The day before I had met an American woman who was traveling with her two small children. She told me about a restaurant called Paradise Dynasty which was on the 4th floor of an office building by Taipei City Hall. They served amongst other things Xiao Long Bao {soup dumplings} in different flavors, each flavor had it’s own color. In order they were original, ginseng, foie gras, back truffle, cheese, crab roe, garlic and Szechuan. Of course I ordered that as well as a delicious dish of water spinach in bean sauce cost $15. The whole area was extremely upscale, as were all the restaurants on that floor, it reminded me of Japanese department stores with a group of restaurants to a floor.
On the 47th floor was a Morton’s of Chicago offering a Barolo dinner for $160 on 10/30. The whole area was such a culture shock compared to the rest of the city. Every luxe brand has its own boutique and it is generic of upscale shopping anywhere in the world. Have hardly ever felt so self-consciously misplaced as here . As I was walking around I passed a launch by a Danish woman named Ilse Jacobsen of Hornbaeck, who has partnered with a Taiwanese entrepreneur whose name I didn’t get but her collection is called Weng collection, there were a handful of people attending. Across the street there was another launch which had a large group of young people trying to get close to whoever the celebrity was. Christmas decorations were already being displayed, preparations for a European food festival/market with Christmas motive was being readied. So strange in this heat to think of Christmas.
I continued on to Taipei 101, I know it was misty but went up anyway. The gondolas didn't appear to be running. The commercialism was mind boggling you were unable to exit without walking through what seemed like two city blocks of Coral and Jade for sale apart from all the merchandise before you ascended and while you were up there. By now I was exhausted and decided to call it a day. No wonder I had walked almost 4 miles and my back and legs told me to quit.
Oct. 17
Today was totally a day of unexpected occurrences, actually most days are. Decided to have breakfast out, walked by a place that was displaying their breakfast items on a table outside, that’s how I ended up eating Turnip cakes and dried Tofu with Brown Rice for breakfast. It was really delicious, as I continued my walk I passed an herbalist, the scents were too tantalizing so I stepped in. He was weighing and making packages of herbs, spices and dried fruits. I recognized bay leaves and I think it was dried passion fruits crushed up. unfortunately there was a language barrier so I was unable to find out what today’s recipe was for.
Finally it was time to go to the National Palace Museum as it was another rainy day. The Museum required a subway and bus ride since it’s located quite a distance from my hotel. My hotel is not really a hotel it is a hostel with private rooms. My room is small, but it has a wall length mirror to make it appear larger. There is a shower, toilet and sink plus the most comfortable double bed with a delicious comforter. It is a relatively short walk to the nearest MRT (subway) and no end of choices for eating on the way.
The National Palace Museum was free because today was a cultural day. I think every tour group in town had decided it was a very good day to visit. I managed to see some of the most precious paintings, they only exhibit 20 at a time. Got my picture taken in regional costumes, an interactive exhibit of which I have seen several versions. You stand in front of and then you become part of the scene, very amusing for children and some adults. After a while I couldn’t take the noise and crowds and left.
The day before I had met an American woman who was traveling with her two small children. She told me about a restaurant called Paradise Dynasty which was on the 4th floor of an office building by Taipei City Hall. They served amongst other things Xiao Long Bao {soup dumplings} in different flavors, each flavor had it’s own color. In order they were original, ginseng, foie gras, back truffle, cheese, crab roe, garlic and Szechuan. Of course I ordered that as well as a delicious dish of water spinach in bean sauce cost $15. The whole area was extremely upscale, as were all the restaurants on that floor, it reminded me of Japanese department stores with a group of restaurants to a floor.
On the 47th floor was a Morton’s of Chicago offering a Barolo dinner for $160 on 10/30. The whole area was such a culture shock compared to the rest of the city. Every luxe brand has its own boutique and it is generic of upscale shopping anywhere in the world. Have hardly ever felt so self-consciously misplaced as here . As I was walking around I passed a launch by a Danish woman named Ilse Jacobsen of Hornbaeck, who has partnered with a Taiwanese entrepreneur whose name I didn’t get but her collection is called Weng collection, there were a handful of people attending. Across the street there was another launch which had a large group of young people trying to get close to whoever the celebrity was. Christmas decorations were already being displayed, preparations for a European food festival/market with Christmas motive was being readied. So strange in this heat to think of Christmas.
I continued on to Taipei 101, I know it was misty but went up anyway. The gondolas didn't appear to be running. The commercialism was mind boggling you were unable to exit without walking through what seemed like two city blocks of Coral and Jade for sale apart from all the merchandise before you ascended and while you were up there. By now I was exhausted and decided to call it a day. No wonder I had walked almost 4 miles and my back and legs told me to quit.
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