Chefchaouen Report
Oct 14th, 2013, 02:17 PM
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Chefchaouen Report
A little later, I will write a fuller report on all of the places that I visited in Morocco between September 20 and October 8, 2013, but here I are addressing specifically a question that I posted in this forum before I went to Morocco, namely whether Chefchaouen is a tourist trap or a worthwhile destination. In short, I believe that it is a worthwhile destination. Now, a little background and, then, thoughts on Chefchaouen.
I took a grand taxi from Tangier to Chefchaouen primarily because I feared difficulty in locating the riad that I had booked and I counted on the driver for help. It was a wise decision. That riad, Casa la Palma, which I had learned of through this forum, is owned and run by a Spanish couple, Ana and Carlos. They live about two-thirds up the mountainside that makes up the medina of Chefchaouen. To get there, taxi drivers take passengers to a gate (bab) at the top of the medina, someone from the riad meets them, and guides them down the steps to the riad. This all worked out fine, after some consultation between the taxi driver and Carlos on the cell phone, and Carlos met me. This is when trouble started. I was physically almost unable to manage steps that varied in every imaginable way---height, depth, angle, width, and so on, rarely with railings. Before I went to Chefchaouen, I knew that the area was hilly, but I did not know that the town is literally built on the side of a mountain and that there is no vehicular traffic within it. In Chefchaouen, all the restaurants, banks, and businesses are down at the bottom by the kasbah. To get there, one must walk down and, to return, one gets a taxi to go back up to the top gate.
Having booked a room at Casa la Palma was a great stroke of luck, for Ana and Carlos became my guardian angels. The first afternoon, Carlos accompanied me down all the steps to the plaza, holding me steady. The next day, either Ana or Carlos---and sometimes both---took me around Chefchaouen, again helping me with steps and showing me sights. They speak good English and told me a lot about the area, about their experiences living in Morocco, and made suggestions for my further travels. Carlos went and bought my bus ticket to Fez and, the next day, they accompanied me to the taxi stand in the plaza where they gave the driver instructions on taking me to the bus station. I do not know what I would have done without their help.
After this unbelievable generosity, I cannot but have good thoughts about Chefchaouen, but, even so, I did not find it more touristy than some other places and certainly less touristy than Marrakech. There were a lot of Moroccan tourists and that gives a different atmosphere from having westerners. There is not a whole lot to see, but the place is interesting and pleasant. I asked Ana and Carlos about drug use by visitors. They claim that most drug use is by older locals. So, I say, "Go to Chefchaouen. Stay at Casa la Palma." Not only will you have great hosts, but an attractive, comfortable accommodation.
I took a grand taxi from Tangier to Chefchaouen primarily because I feared difficulty in locating the riad that I had booked and I counted on the driver for help. It was a wise decision. That riad, Casa la Palma, which I had learned of through this forum, is owned and run by a Spanish couple, Ana and Carlos. They live about two-thirds up the mountainside that makes up the medina of Chefchaouen. To get there, taxi drivers take passengers to a gate (bab) at the top of the medina, someone from the riad meets them, and guides them down the steps to the riad. This all worked out fine, after some consultation between the taxi driver and Carlos on the cell phone, and Carlos met me. This is when trouble started. I was physically almost unable to manage steps that varied in every imaginable way---height, depth, angle, width, and so on, rarely with railings. Before I went to Chefchaouen, I knew that the area was hilly, but I did not know that the town is literally built on the side of a mountain and that there is no vehicular traffic within it. In Chefchaouen, all the restaurants, banks, and businesses are down at the bottom by the kasbah. To get there, one must walk down and, to return, one gets a taxi to go back up to the top gate.
Having booked a room at Casa la Palma was a great stroke of luck, for Ana and Carlos became my guardian angels. The first afternoon, Carlos accompanied me down all the steps to the plaza, holding me steady. The next day, either Ana or Carlos---and sometimes both---took me around Chefchaouen, again helping me with steps and showing me sights. They speak good English and told me a lot about the area, about their experiences living in Morocco, and made suggestions for my further travels. Carlos went and bought my bus ticket to Fez and, the next day, they accompanied me to the taxi stand in the plaza where they gave the driver instructions on taking me to the bus station. I do not know what I would have done without their help.
After this unbelievable generosity, I cannot but have good thoughts about Chefchaouen, but, even so, I did not find it more touristy than some other places and certainly less touristy than Marrakech. There were a lot of Moroccan tourists and that gives a different atmosphere from having westerners. There is not a whole lot to see, but the place is interesting and pleasant. I asked Ana and Carlos about drug use by visitors. They claim that most drug use is by older locals. So, I say, "Go to Chefchaouen. Stay at Casa la Palma." Not only will you have great hosts, but an attractive, comfortable accommodation.
Aug 5th, 2017, 05:19 AM
#3
I know this is several years old but I hope, Zambezi, that you are around and perhaps might add some additional comments. I'm now in the process of planning a 15 night trip for April 2018 (tickets purchased) into Casablanca and out of Marrakech.
Right now, I'm trying to figure out whether or not to include Chefchaoen and/or Essaouria. Did you enjoy one more than the other? I did notice that you had difficulty with Chefchaoen because of the steps, and I, too, have some challenges in walking, particularly uphill, though can manage if I go slowly. How much did the uphill challenges interfere with your enjoyment of the city?
Did the "touristy" nature of the cities interfere with either place? I'm torn as Chefchaoen is so visually stunning and, as a photographer, I do enjoy having those photo opportunities, but also don't want a trip to be solely about the images, but more a flavor of a place.
If anyone else wishes to comment, especially if you've visited both places, that would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Paule
Right now, I'm trying to figure out whether or not to include Chefchaoen and/or Essaouria. Did you enjoy one more than the other? I did notice that you had difficulty with Chefchaoen because of the steps, and I, too, have some challenges in walking, particularly uphill, though can manage if I go slowly. How much did the uphill challenges interfere with your enjoyment of the city?
Did the "touristy" nature of the cities interfere with either place? I'm torn as Chefchaoen is so visually stunning and, as a photographer, I do enjoy having those photo opportunities, but also don't want a trip to be solely about the images, but more a flavor of a place.
If anyone else wishes to comment, especially if you've visited both places, that would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Paule
Aug 5th, 2017, 06:30 PM
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I visited both in spring 2016 and loved both. The only downside to Chefchauouen for me was because I routed my trip to go there from Casablanca. Delays in the bus trip stretched a planned 6 hour trip into 8. But still, it was worth it and it is a visual pleasure. Depending on the limits of your physicality, you could miss out on some of the most striking places, such as photos of the city along the mountainside from the Spanish Mosque. But there is still plenty of great photo ops within the medina itself. And it just had a cool, kind of hippie vibe to it (and not because of any drug culture, as I did not see anything of the sort.) I spent two nights in Chaouen.
Essaouira was also a delight and was an easy 2 hour private taxi ride from Marrakech. I also spent two nights here. It would probably be easier for you to navigate as it's quite flat, being a beach city and all. Screeching seagulls, great fish, and a great photo city as well.
I am extremely happy than I visited both. You don't say what the rest of your itinerary looks like. I had 16 nights and felt that I saw saw everything I wanted to see other than the Sahara, which would just have required too much time for, IMHO, too little return. If this applies to you, take out all but one night you may have allocated to Casablanca. The Hassan II mosque is stunning and was the single favorite thing I saw on my trip but the rest of the city is uggers.
Let us know what your current itinerary looks like.
Essaouira was also a delight and was an easy 2 hour private taxi ride from Marrakech. I also spent two nights here. It would probably be easier for you to navigate as it's quite flat, being a beach city and all. Screeching seagulls, great fish, and a great photo city as well.
I am extremely happy than I visited both. You don't say what the rest of your itinerary looks like. I had 16 nights and felt that I saw saw everything I wanted to see other than the Sahara, which would just have required too much time for, IMHO, too little return. If this applies to you, take out all but one night you may have allocated to Casablanca. The Hassan II mosque is stunning and was the single favorite thing I saw on my trip but the rest of the city is uggers.
Let us know what your current itinerary looks like.
Aug 6th, 2017, 02:23 AM
#5
Many many thanks MinnBeef! This is very help - and making the decision about the itinerary is very difficult. I have 15 nights - will be arriving but not staying in Casablanca and hope to see the Hassan Mosque upon arrival. But i do want that wonderful stop in the desert so trying to figure out an itinerary that isn't all about driving is a challenge.
Very tentatively, I'm thinking
Arrive Casablanca-
Drive to Rabat
Rabat - 1 night
Chefchaoen- 2
Fes -3
Desert+ gorge/mountains 3-4
Essaouria -2
Marrakech -3
Fly home from Marrakech.
In the various iterations of the above, I have one more night (in Meknes) and just a 1- night stay in Essaouria. That way, we are not driving as much to get to Chefchaoen, but still have a chance at the end to vsee Esau.
Another variation is arriving in Marrakech at the end of the trip but breaking up our stay with a 1 night visit to Essaouria.
Still a work in progress.
Again, I much appreciate your comments. I've read your reports and have found them very helpful, too.
Very tentatively, I'm thinking
Arrive Casablanca-
Drive to Rabat
Rabat - 1 night
Chefchaoen- 2
Fes -3
Desert+ gorge/mountains 3-4
Essaouria -2
Marrakech -3
Fly home from Marrakech.
In the various iterations of the above, I have one more night (in Meknes) and just a 1- night stay in Essaouria. That way, we are not driving as much to get to Chefchaoen, but still have a chance at the end to vsee Esau.
Another variation is arriving in Marrakech at the end of the trip but breaking up our stay with a 1 night visit to Essaouria.
Still a work in progress.
Again, I much appreciate your comments. I've read your reports and have found them very helpful, too.
Aug 6th, 2017, 02:27 AM
#7
Jeez, I should really proof things when I write.... "That way, we are not driving as much to get to Chef, but still have a chance at the end to see Essaouria "
Sorry, folks! It's early in the morning and I haven't even had my coffee yet! That'll teach me!
Sorry, folks! It's early in the morning and I haven't even had my coffee yet! That'll teach me!
Aug 6th, 2017, 05:04 AM
#8
When you say "driving" are you driving yourself? If so, if you are arriving off a night flight, better to take the train to Rabat.
If you can use a night somewhere else I would drop one from Marrakech. I didn't make it to Chefchaoen, but I did go to Essaouira. It was the least "Moroccan" place I went in three weks there, but very photogenic and a good place to rest up near the end of the trip.
If you can use a night somewhere else I would drop one from Marrakech. I didn't make it to Chefchaoen, but I did go to Essaouira. It was the least "Moroccan" place I went in three weks there, but very photogenic and a good place to rest up near the end of the trip.
Aug 6th, 2017, 05:48 AM
#9
thursdayd,
No, we are not driving ourself. I'm hiring a company to provide us with a driver -- I've decided that I don't want us distracted by having to navigate and find parking, and I want my husband (the designated driver) to be able to enjoy the vistas. I KNOW that it's not a hard place to drive on one's own, but I think we'll both be much more relaxed if we have a driver (thursdayd - I know you didn't suggest that we drive on our own -- I'm just anticipating that someone might make that suggestion to do it ourselves which I've considered).
Thanks for the suggestion of dropping a day from Marrakech for the extra day in Essaouria; I was thinking that might be the place to "lose" a day, if needed. More people prefer Fes to Marrakech, and while I think both are important, I suspect that at the end, Marrakech will be a very intense wrap up!
No, we are not driving ourself. I'm hiring a company to provide us with a driver -- I've decided that I don't want us distracted by having to navigate and find parking, and I want my husband (the designated driver) to be able to enjoy the vistas. I KNOW that it's not a hard place to drive on one's own, but I think we'll both be much more relaxed if we have a driver (thursdayd - I know you didn't suggest that we drive on our own -- I'm just anticipating that someone might make that suggestion to do it ourselves which I've considered).
Thanks for the suggestion of dropping a day from Marrakech for the extra day in Essaouria; I was thinking that might be the place to "lose" a day, if needed. More people prefer Fes to Marrakech, and while I think both are important, I suspect that at the end, Marrakech will be a very intense wrap up!
Aug 6th, 2017, 03:54 PM
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Glad you found my report and contributions helpful. Since you are driving to Rabat, you are the boss in terms of when you leave. If you have any interest in architecture, religion and/or cultural enlightenment (and obviously you do because you are visiting Morocco from, I assume, North America, GB, or ANZ) don't you dare skip the Hassan II mosque. You can thank me after you return from your trip.
Aug 7th, 2017, 01:21 AM
#11
Thanks, MinnBeef,
Hassan II is definitely in the plan!
And for what it's worth, here's my newly revised, updated 15-night itinerary, leaving April 13 and returning on April 29:
Arrive Casablanca, drive to Rabat (with stop for Hassan II mosque)
Rabat - 1
Chefchaouen -2
Fes - 3
Desert/gorge/kasbah trip - 4
Marrakech -2
Essaouria -2
Marrakech -1
Fly home
Will update you all as I'm sure there will be more changes in the future!
Hassan II is definitely in the plan!
And for what it's worth, here's my newly revised, updated 15-night itinerary, leaving April 13 and returning on April 29:
Arrive Casablanca, drive to Rabat (with stop for Hassan II mosque)
Rabat - 1
Chefchaouen -2
Fes - 3
Desert/gorge/kasbah trip - 4
Marrakech -2
Essaouria -2
Marrakech -1
Fly home
Will update you all as I'm sure there will be more changes in the future!
Aug 7th, 2017, 07:47 AM
#14
thursdaysd - I didn't answer your question, and yes, the drive would be too long and add too many 1-night stops in a row, so it ends up making more sense to break up the visit to Marrakech. I'm comfortable with this itinerary - it gives me a taste of each of the spots that I want to see.
Aug 8th, 2017, 04:31 PM
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Dear Paule: It is a pleasant surprise that you have found my remarks about Chefchaouen in your diligent research for your forthcoming trip to Morocco. With four years of hindsight and many more travel miles, I read them again with interest and with respect to what you want in your trip.
You asked whether I enjoyed Chefchaouen more than Essaouria. In reflection, I believe that I enjoyed Chefchaouen more than Essaouria because, being in a mountainous area, it was more scenic and, staying in the medina, I received a real feel of life for ordinary citizens. Essaouria does have certain advantages: the ocean, lots of local seafood, good shopping with agreeable merchants. However, there are more foreign tourists and, as best as I could tell, the fort is the main attraction.
About mobility in Chefchaouen. I had serious difficulties both because of vision and of general mobility limitations. It didn't matter whether I was going up or down. Take seriously what I wrote about steps being every size and configuration imaginable. Ditto about the lack of hand railings. I urge you to take a folding hiking stick with you.
I read that you plan to have a car and driver. I applaud you for that. Hope that the driver speaks adequate English. Also, your latest tentative itinerary looks good. Morocco is a beautiful country and the people are outstandingly kind. Good luck. ZZ
You asked whether I enjoyed Chefchaouen more than Essaouria. In reflection, I believe that I enjoyed Chefchaouen more than Essaouria because, being in a mountainous area, it was more scenic and, staying in the medina, I received a real feel of life for ordinary citizens. Essaouria does have certain advantages: the ocean, lots of local seafood, good shopping with agreeable merchants. However, there are more foreign tourists and, as best as I could tell, the fort is the main attraction.
About mobility in Chefchaouen. I had serious difficulties both because of vision and of general mobility limitations. It didn't matter whether I was going up or down. Take seriously what I wrote about steps being every size and configuration imaginable. Ditto about the lack of hand railings. I urge you to take a folding hiking stick with you.
I read that you plan to have a car and driver. I applaud you for that. Hope that the driver speaks adequate English. Also, your latest tentative itinerary looks good. Morocco is a beautiful country and the people are outstandingly kind. Good luck. ZZ
Aug 11th, 2017, 12:03 AM
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@progol: I've revisited a dozen times since my first visit to Chefchaouen on honeymoon in 1974.
Chefchaouen is seriously hilly with 100m height difference between the highest and lowest parts of the town. If you have difficulty walking uphill you will be severely restricted in what you can see. It's also quite out of the way geographically with Fez being more than four hours away by car/taxi. I've provided some photo links below which might help give an impression.
http://www.morocco-knowledgebase.net...full=1#post540
http://www.morocco-knowledgebase.net...read.php?t=262
http://www.morocco-knowledgebase.net...read.php?t=261
Chefchaouen is seriously hilly with 100m height difference between the highest and lowest parts of the town. If you have difficulty walking uphill you will be severely restricted in what you can see. It's also quite out of the way geographically with Fez being more than four hours away by car/taxi. I've provided some photo links below which might help give an impression.
http://www.morocco-knowledgebase.net...full=1#post540
http://www.morocco-knowledgebase.net...read.php?t=262
http://www.morocco-knowledgebase.net...read.php?t=261
Aug 11th, 2017, 01:46 AM
#17
Zambezi and Tim, thank you so much for your comments!
Zambezi, many thanks for your very thoughtful response. I found your comments very helpful and appreciate the take on Chefchaouen vs Essouaria. I've gone back and forth in the planning for over a year (had initially planned to go last year) and have always found it hard to make up my mind on which place to visit. Some folks suggest that these are just "tourist" destinations rather than lived-in places, yet others call them very special and worth visiting. While my itinerary may be too fast-paced for some, it does have enough breaks so I'm pleased to have something where I get a good taste of Morocco.
I think I will be fine walking in Chefchaouen. My problems with walking have to do with getting fatigued easily, but while I can't do a several-hour hike in the mountains, walking slowly up meandering stairs or even a hill won't be a problem. I don't have issues with balance so uneven stairs is not an issue.
I have found a driver with a small company, realizing that with the many places I want to get to, it will make our trip much easier. We can both enjoy the sights as we drive and not worry about parking! If we had a longer period of time and were not staying in cities, then I'd consider a combination of renting a car and public transport, but this will all be taken care of for us. I don't mind a little pampering!
Tim, many thanks for the wonderful threads with photos and videos! Fascinating and videos - I'm thoroughly enjoying them and getting very excited about our trip (April 2018).
Zambezi, many thanks for your very thoughtful response. I found your comments very helpful and appreciate the take on Chefchaouen vs Essouaria. I've gone back and forth in the planning for over a year (had initially planned to go last year) and have always found it hard to make up my mind on which place to visit. Some folks suggest that these are just "tourist" destinations rather than lived-in places, yet others call them very special and worth visiting. While my itinerary may be too fast-paced for some, it does have enough breaks so I'm pleased to have something where I get a good taste of Morocco.
I think I will be fine walking in Chefchaouen. My problems with walking have to do with getting fatigued easily, but while I can't do a several-hour hike in the mountains, walking slowly up meandering stairs or even a hill won't be a problem. I don't have issues with balance so uneven stairs is not an issue.
I have found a driver with a small company, realizing that with the many places I want to get to, it will make our trip much easier. We can both enjoy the sights as we drive and not worry about parking! If we had a longer period of time and were not staying in cities, then I'd consider a combination of renting a car and public transport, but this will all be taken care of for us. I don't mind a little pampering!
Tim, many thanks for the wonderful threads with photos and videos! Fascinating and videos - I'm thoroughly enjoying them and getting very excited about our trip (April 2018).
Feb 21st, 2018, 07:59 AM
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Hello progol,
Just wondering what company you will be using for your car/driver to Morocco. I am in the planning stages of a Moroccan journey for next December. I am getting a wide range of quotes. Thank you very much!
Just wondering what company you will be using for your car/driver to Morocco. I am in the planning stages of a Moroccan journey for next December. I am getting a wide range of quotes. Thank you very much!
Feb 22nd, 2018, 02:45 AM
#20
Hi, Live2Travel1000,
I'm working with Hassan at Berber Space Morocco. Their rates were the lowest of all the companies I contacted. It's a small company - the website says that it was started by his brother, but I've only dealt with Hassan. He is not always the fastest to respond, but everything so far seems good -- that is, all the places are booked and they are well-reviewed. But I will know more when we return from our trip -- can't wait to go!!
http://www.berberspacemorocco.com/
I'm working with Hassan at Berber Space Morocco. Their rates were the lowest of all the companies I contacted. It's a small company - the website says that it was started by his brother, but I've only dealt with Hassan. He is not always the fastest to respond, but everything so far seems good -- that is, all the places are booked and they are well-reviewed. But I will know more when we return from our trip -- can't wait to go!!
http://www.berberspacemorocco.com/
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